If there were blots then they were faint — the somewhat repetitive reappearance of yet more padrons alongside a perfectly nice (yet perhaps not wholly necessary) venison mixed grill platter. We finished with a piece of meat fruit-level trickery: a banana parfait set by what I imagine is a complex, custom mould into the shape of a perfect, vanilla-flecked whole banana, accessorised with sticky tendrils of candied skin, and a ravishing drenching of warm rum caramel. If it was another flex, another show of financial might and technical capability, then it was the best sort; a fitting visual motif for a restaurant and an area that is not what it first appears. Roe is both big and clever. And what could have easily been a victim of sequel bloat feels, instead, like one of the defining, gravity-defying openings of the year.