The major luxury brands unveil the exceptional locations chosen to host their Cruise 2025 fashion shows. Following in the footsteps of Seoul, Los Angeles, Mexico City, Isola Bella and Stockholm, they are setting a massive course for European port cities.
As the spring season returns, fashion houses abandon the Big Four – Paris, New York, London, and Milan – for the “cruise” shows.
Originating in the 1920s, “cruise” or “pre-spring” collections were designed for a wealthy clientele, mainly American, who preferred to travel to sunny destinations during the winter season. These intermediate lines are now presented between the traditional Spring-Summer and Fall-Winter Fashion Weeks to offer a mid-season wardrobe.
While these cruise offerings were previously aimed at a very limited clientele, they have now become a significant financial lever for brands and represent nearly 50% of some brands’ annual revenue. Presentations have moved from the small salons of the Houses to exotic destinations. Magical settings in Morocco, arid landscapes in the Californian desert, or bucolic escapes on an Italian island… Brands spare no effort to create spectacles that will dazzle guests and the press.
Louis Vuitton in Barcelona
On May 23rd, Nicolas Ghesquière will present his new collection for Louis Vuitton. While the exact location has not yet been announced, it has already been revealed that this Cruise show will take place in Barcelona, Spain. The beauty of the Catalan city will undoubtedly enhance the silhouettes imagined by the creative director of the women’s collections, who has been in the position since 2013.
This upcoming show is part of a series of collaborations between the monogrammed House and the city of Barcelona. This summer, Louis Vuitton will once again serve as the Title Partner of the 37th edition of the America’s Cup in Barcelona. The brand also plans to release a City Guide dedicated to Barcelona, aiming to promote the dynamism and creativity of the Catalan city.
Gucci in London
After Seoul last year, the Italian House crosses the Channel and heads to the English capital. On May 13th, Gucci’s spring 2025 pre-collection will parade within the walls of the Tate Modern, London’s largest museum of modern and contemporary art. While artistic director Sabato de Sarno unveils his first Cruise line imagined for Gucci, the House explained in a statement why it chose London. “The choice of location pays tribute to the deep connection between Gucci and the British capital, intrinsically linked to the brand’s heritage. It offers new opportunities to explore the city’s central role in shaping the brand narrative throughout its history“
Gucci’s founder, Guccio Gucci, found inspiration for creating his leather goods business while working as a porter and lift attendant at the famous London hotel, the Savoy. There, he became familiar with the style and tastes of the international elite, especially in luggage, before returning to Italy to establish the House of Gucci.
In addition to this connection with the Tate Modern for this show, the brand will also support the exhibition “Electric Dreams,” which will be on display at the museum in autumn 2024. The Kering-owned brand has also announced a three-year partnership with the cultural institution to promote the Tate’s work with young creatives.
Chanel in Marseille
At its last Cruise show, Chanel took over the iconic Paramount studios in Los Angeles. This year, the House with two Cs returns to its roots in France, specifically to the South. Therefore, the next collection by Virginie Viard will be unveiled in Marseille on May 2nd.
The cream of the fashion world will attend this show, which will take place on the roof of the Cité Radieuse. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this building designed by Le Corbusier is a fully-fledged and avant-garde architectural work. As the building’s roof can only accommodate a maximum of 500 people, Chanel had to face logistical challenges. It was ultimately decided to organize two identical shows, the first in the morning followed by a second in the late afternoon.
Dior in Scotland
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Photo Credit: © Louis Vuitton