Offering up panoramic views of the Manchester skyline, Climat, a wine-led restaurant atop Blackfriars House, opened its doors back in November 2022. Since then, it’s been winning over diners with its Parisian-style interiors, sprawling rooftop terrace and casual but elevated dishes.

The Observer’s resident food critic, Jay Rayner, raved about the place during a visit last year, falling head over heels for its hash brown topped with ‘whorls’ of taramasalata’ and a vol-au-vent filled with lamb keema. He added that it was ‘hard not to fall in adult love’ with the menu.

This past September it was also nominated in the best restaurant category in the Manchester Food & Drink Awards. So, it’s no surprise that another national critic has made the ascent, even if finding to ‘base camp’ – reception – is ‘like trying to find a camel in a sandstorm’.

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William Sitwell, The Telegraph’s restaurant critic, has heaped praise on the restaurant, which he says leaves one ‘grateful for the miracle of wine’. From his review, it’s clear he became well acquainted with Climat’s extensive selection, which spans more than 250 bottles.

Sister restaurant to Chester’s Michelin-Guide recommended Covino, the restaurant situated eight floors up features spectacular rooftop views of Manchester landmarks, while its name – pronounced without the ‘e’ – derives from the term used to describe a singular vineyard site in Burgundy, lauded for its micro-climate and perfect growing conditions.

Tucked away just off Deansgate, the restaurant, as Mr Sitwell found, can be tricky to track down, particularly the entrance. “There’s a cheerful confidence from the staff who settle you from your tawdry journey, rather like those teams of people who greet you off the boat with garlands, water and towels after a long and tedious trip,” he wrote in his review for the publication.

Dishes here are overseen by Executive Chef Luke Richardson and Head Chef Simon Ulph, and focus on serving up British cuisine with influences from around the globe. During his meal, the critic said there was clearly ‘nimble thinking in the kitchen’, lavishing praise on ‘fabulous’ hash browns and ‘novel’ beef tartare.

As he writes: “We began with oeuf mayo and Exmoor caviar, a nice little breakfasty dish of eggy, creamy saltiness and perfect with their homemade, crusty sourdough. Then a dish of fabulous indulgence: what they call hash browns but was really a slice of layered confit potato with a piping of creamy white taramasalata.”

He goes on to describe the raviolo with brown butter and crisp sage that followed as ‘respectable’ , before tucking into a pork chop with Hispi cabbage, cheesey pomme puree and a ‘fine’ tart of bitter chocolate and a plate of aged Comte.

It is the wine though that he finds himself most taken with. “This place is making a very cogent argument that God invented food so that man could drink wine,” he declares before quaffing varities from across Europe.

Adding: “You’re encouraged to bring it on with endless plates so that they can then shower you with glasses and carafes of wine, and leave the place grateful that the miracle of wine makes the world not just a better place but one worth living in.”

Climat was founded by the team behind Covino in Chester. It can be found at Climat, 8th Floor, Blackfriars House, St Marys Parsonage, Manchester M3 2JA.