Francis Libiran unleashes forward-looking ‘Sterling’ showcase for 25th anniversary

C. Mendez Legaspi – Philstar.com

December 10, 2023 | 10:24am

MANILA, Philippines — The Grand Ballroom at the City of Dreams witnessed a dream-like, surreal and hypnotic showcase such that Manila has never experienced before. On November 24, internationally renowned fashion designer Francis Libiran brandished “Sterling,” his forward-looking collection inspired by the mythical phoenix.

The cerebral and trailblazing Ariel Lozada directed the mystical showcase. The fantastical hair and makeup was by Eric Maningat with help from the legendary Henri Calayag. The men’s hats were created by the highly creative Ricky Vicencio

“The Francis Libiran Phoenix Collection is inspired by 25 years in the craft of designing works of wearable art. It narrates a journey of rising from the ashes reflected by the transitioning from gold to gray to black, and finally to a fiery red gown — The Phoenix,” explained the architect-turned-designer.

This writer was given the privilege to observe the fittings of the models in early November. It was a tedious yet fulfilling process as Libiran and his army of assistants, skilled seamstresses and tailors labored to present a cohesive collection. What resulted was, indeed, this year’s most sterling showcase.

A relatively relaxed Libiran graciously shared some insights:

Iraq fabrics

“I love sourcing. Part of what I’m doing every night, I would scroll through my phone and look for different suppliers around the world. Then I came across Iraq. They have really nice fabrics that are embellished. The crystals that they are using are not plastic, they’re really crystals. That’s why they’re a bit heavy.

“The one worn by model Austin Cabatana is a mirrored shirt. On Yaofade la Cruz, they’re really stones on her flowy silk taffeta gown. You’d be amazed how they stuck the stones on the fabric because they can’t easily be removed or fall off.

“So when I saw the materials, I was really wowed that I really wanted to go to Iraq and see for myself. But the thing is, it’s dangerous to go there. So I was transacting with the suppliers online, making sure that they would arrive at a certain time.”

First girl

The opening piece was supposedly earmarked for supermodel Ria Bolivar.

Called “Rebirth of the Phoenix,” it tells the journey of Francis Libiran rising from the ashes. The piece, made of wired crushed silk, embodied beginnings and the start of rising towards a victory reflecting the splendor of the mythical Phoenix.

With Ria’s absence, the stunning number was modeled by the majestic Justine Gabionza

Menswear

“When I saw the fabric, which Austin Cabatana eventually wore, I thought of making a gown. But on second thought, I decided to do menswear since not all guys can pull it off. The fit of the pants, it’s not anymore the tight-fitting. I played around with a bit of a flare. So, the models looked more towering. The gold suits are brocade in silk. If you make it into suits and pants, it’s very clean and crisp because of the stiffness of the fabric. That’s how it behaves.”

Bamboo Barong Tagalog

“Not in this collection. Because the thing with bamboo fabric we’re having a hard time putting colors to it. Medyo malabnaw pa rin. Maganda pa rin s’ya in its natural color. If I did it in its natural color, it might look Filipiniana or SONA. Nothing against it but I want something different for this collection because it’s my 25th and I want to showcase the craftsmanship and the couture side of what I’m doing.”

Perfect fits

“So if it’s perfect for the models, they’ll be the ones to wear it. If you notice with this collection, there’s minimal repairs. I only look at the lengths because I don’t want them to trip during the show.

“I had two trans models from Bangkok — Nana Sasiyarin and Risa Purisa. They’ve already done their fittings in Bangkok. I also have Stacy Biano from Cebu.They really have great proportions. I find them so hot every time they wear something elegant and sexy. They fit the theme and the look that I’m looking for that I couldn’t find in other women. So when they had a fitting, they were perfect for the clothes.”

Nude and crimson gown

At the fittings, this outstanding outfit was tried on by a Caucasian model, by Yaofa de la Cruz, then by Kim Ross.

On gala night, it was finally worn by Cebuana beauty queen Chantal Schmidt as the penultimate dress: “It’s a unique combination that’s why I didn’t put any beading at all because I already love the ombre effect. But I had the red parts darkened and airbrushed some more to make it even more beautiful.”

Final girl

The gorgeous Jasmine Maierhofer-Patrimonio sauntered in a gown that was “a sultry depiction of Francis Libiran rising from adversities and moving towards a sterling triumph like a phoenix rising from the ashes at rebirth.”