London Fashion Week might be celebrating 40 years but the event’s unique positioning keeps it young at heart for Chinese designers. At Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion–an exhibition featuring the British Fashion Council’s New Gen showcasing and development initiative for emerging designers– the close ties between the two over the decades are evident.

“London is a very special place for creativity,” accessory designer Yang Du tells me. Featured in the exhibition, Du was one of the first wave of designers to decamp to the fashion capital. In 2002, she studied at Central Saint Martins and was seen then as a bit of a novelty. During an internship in Vivienne Westwood, the manager would introduce her at that time by saying: please meet Yang. She is from China. “Chinese students in fashion or Chinese students in general were that rare,” Du laughs. She set up her eponymous brand in 2009 and since then has shown at London and Paris fashion weeks, securing stockists globally.

Although she’s now swapped LFW for a DTC model (hosting regular pop up events and collaborations with influencers), she is one of the many Chinese designers that are using LFW as a springboard to a global career. Take Wang’s contemporary and fellow New Gen recipient, Huishan Zhang who has lived in the city for 17 years. On the LFW line-up since 2012, Zhang has grown into a steady regular on the schedule. “London is home” he says backstage. “And without the BFC I wouldn’t be showing, it’s that simple. They’ve supported me from the very beginning,” he says.

Autumn 24 was sophisticated and tailored, with artisanal details—everything we’ve come to expect for the Qingdao native. Despite the references to Hollywood glamor, it could equally be seen as an ode to London and was hosted at the quintessentially British venue Banqueting House (where King Charles I was executed). Caroline Rush, CEO of the BFC outlines the reasons China continues to prioritize the UK. “Many creatives come from China to the UK as it boasts a reputation of being a global leader in supporting fashion talent. And it’s known to have the best fashion and art colleges in the world for programmes and schemes such as design.”

Also featured in the Rebel exhibition was Yuhan Wang. From Weihai in Shandong province, Wang has been on the official LFW schedule since 2020. Conceptually, she pays homage to women and the battle for gender equality in Autumn 24—a topic of growing awareness in China. Drawing inspiration from her sister, a lawyer, she uses the codes and symbols of the courtroom to conjure up a collection of statement skirt suits, gowns and whimsical cloaks. “Nowadays, especially in Asia, we don’t even have that many women in the law. I feel like we need more people to see how strong and confident women are—in all areas of society,” she tells me after the show.

So, from the serious to the sensorial. It’s not fashion week without imaginative collaborations. Puig-owned Penhalligon’s is no stranger to the event. And this season it collaborated with two Chinese brands to tap the country’s insatiable appetite for fragrance. Julia Koeppen, GM of Penhaligon’s says that to create an immersive experience during their shows, fashion designers are thinking multi-sensorially. “Scent can be a powerful tool to help unlock and evoke a particular feeling or a mood,” Koeppen explains.

First to showcase, Mithdraite is the dark horse of LFW. Popping up on the schedule in 2021, the Guangzhou-based brand helmed by Demon Zhang chose Lady Blanche–from Penhalligon’s Portraits collection– to scent its show. A mix of spring florals and woody tones, it was hand-sprayed on bespoke fans gifted to guests to accompany the ornate and richly embellished runway designs.

Susan Fang also collaborated with the perfume house for a more immersive runway outing. Opting for the rose and ginger juice, aptly titled Liquid Love, the newly married designer includes her wedding dress in the collection that debuted a collaboration with Victoria’s Secrets. “The idea behind the scenting of the show was to give a sense of love for the environment we are together in: We wanted to show where home is, that’s where love is…” Fang says after her fanciful show which included giant bubble machines and bubble tea.

Speaking of sustenance, Chinese American Samamtha Siu treated editors to a dinner at the Ned to showcase her latest ornate and ethically produced fine jewelry collection, Love Story. Two newcomers brought a sense of the possibilities of LFW once you are away from the runway. Chengdu born Izzy Du took over a store in London’s Soho with her oversized cocoon puffers that was open to the public, stating:“I want to take it one bite at a time. Plus I had to make sure it was accessible for everyone.”

Finally, Kyle Ho’s first physical activation in London aims to “challenge the fashion culture,” hosting a presentation at the Eros fountain to the delight of passersby. “I believe that fashion should be seen, instead of for a certain number of people to see first. Fashion culture should be accessible to the public. That’s why I’m here, at one of London’s most popular landmarks in Piccadilly.” Based in London for a decade, Hong Kong born Ho produces his bespoke collections in the UK. “Each garment always has a story behind it, it should be meaningful. No one should be wearing anything for the sake of it,” Lo says amid the hustle and bustle of Piccadilly. It didn’t quite stop traffic but it certainly made a statement.