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On Saturday night a quaint San Francisco gallery transformed into a catwalk that spilled out onto the sidewalk of 18th street. Beginning inside among works of art, the models carried their looks out onto the street — a fitting format for a show entitled “Art and Fashion in the Garbage Age.” A partnership between MAG Galleries and Piles Collective, all of the collection’s pieces were found in the streets or scavenged in dumpsters within a mile-and-a-half radius of the venue.
In addition to the runway show, the collection included several artworks on view in the gallery. Multimedia pieces were dispersed throughout the room, an assemblage ranging from colorfully dyed garments to furniture to framed photographs.
The exhibition is a representation of the Collective’s mission of repurposing and reviving found material. One walks among images of garbage in its initial state: pieces of bread, cigarette butts and plastic bags. Simultaneously, the collection contains raw materials transformed into intricate works of art, from furniture made out of fabric scraps to magnificent gowns of tempered glass. The artists turn trash into treasure, drawing beauty from the discarded.
As a drizzle of rain picked up outside, MAG Galleries became a haven of warmth and creativity. In anticipation for the show’s commencement, there was a distinct buzz of chic San Franciscans clad in black, chatting and sipping on bubbly drinks.
The laughter and conversation settled down at 7pm, when Liz Cahill, co-founder of Decentered Art, stepped out of the crowd to introduce the show. In speaking to the crowd, Cahill noted that the show was inspired by the contemporary state of the world, citing late-stage capitalism, political polarization and climate collapse.
Piles Collective was founded by a group of artists in residence at Decentered Arts, a community for San Franciscan creatives. With material scavenged by Cahill, photographed by Paul Reginato and upcycled by fashion designer Joey Ehrenberg, the three conceptualized “Art and Fashion in the Garbage Age,” its first gallery exhibition since the Collective’s inception in 2023.
“We want to show that trash can be cool, sexy and valuable,” Cahill said in the event’s opening remarks.
The show began with music by San Francisco-based musician Roziht, who scored the runway with a combination of prerecorded music, electric cello, piano and vocals. The soundtrack had a purposely slow tempo to allow the models to move slowly and express their individuality.
In combination with hypnotizing movements and melodies, the collection’s clothing added an additional layer of nuance to the show. With mixed textures of leather and velvet, a majority of the outfits were characterized by an industrial feel, models donning expertly tailored earth-toned attire fashioned with zippers and silver buttons, styled with Dr. Martens boots.
Simultaneously, many of the pieces evoked a sense of playfulness and joy. Brightly dyed streetwear garments of orange, purple and blue followed outfits with geometric prints and silky ribbons.
The contrast between edginess and playfulness in this collection speaks to the designer’s celebration of the raw medium: street garbage. Through his repurposing of San Francisco’s unwanted materials, Ehrenberg breathes new life into the old, transforming and extending the life expectancy and purpose of the materials used.
As the show’s finish approached, the music rose in tempo and became more electronic, emphasizing its overarching futuristic sentiment. Despite its relevance and contemporaneity, “Art and Fashion in the Garbage Age” is a message from the future. The exhibition encapsulates urban life and expounds upon it, depicting a world in which garbage has beauty and utilitarian value. Suddenly, one becomes aware that the material we disregard can have purpose, a sign of hope in a world of seemingly endless waste.
Works from “Art and Fashion in the Garbage Age” will be on display in MAG Galleries until Feb. 2, and all pieces are available for purchase.
Though the exhibition is coming to a close, founder of MAG Galleries, Michael Gonzalez, added that the gallery plans to host a monthly rotation of runway shows, spotlighting various artists from around the Bay Area.