If there’s anyone who knows how to catapult a fledgling nail trend into the realms of success (read: virality), it’s Hailey Bieber. First it was the glazed donut manicure, the coruscating yet subtle look that continues to dominate our algorithms. Then came every chocolate, milky and ombre iteration that followed. Now, the Rhode founder has declared tortoiseshell nails the ultimate manicure du jour.

Trading her signature chrome-effect nails, Bieber’s tortoiseshell tips are bringing fresh appeal to the classic autumnal staple via chocolatey-rich tones, elongated and graphic designs, and an ultra glossy finish. And, as you might expect from someone whose personal nail art is among the most coveted in salons around the world, tortoiseshell is trending once again as a result.

From split tortoiseshell nails to mahogany tips, there are now more iterations cropping up than ever. Here, brush up on the reimagining of the classic trend; the latest trends to know and see how to recreate tortoiseshell nails at home.

What are tortoiseshell nails?

Fans of the traditional tortoiseshell manicure will note that it’s a style that usually crops up as soon as the leaves turn golden, but it’s one that wears many hats. ‘Tortoiseshell nails are a classic nail art look and come back around every autumn and winter,’ agrees Metta Francis, award-winning London-based manicurist and founder of Nails by Mets.

Defined by speckled tones of caramel, brown and black, the allure lies in their originality since every tortoiseshell design is slightly different by default. Where the aesthetic is concerned, it’s pretty easy to see the appeal. A happy medium between your vibrant summer mani and the darker, bolder hues synonymous with winter, they’re the perfect autumnal upgrade; the middle ground between the loud neon French manicure you wore on repeat peak-heatwave and the ubiquitous ‘quiet luxury’ trend that’s not so quietly taking over, where a sea of barely-there tones and micro manicures have defined both our fingertips and sartorial mood.

‘Tortoiseshell nail art captures the essence of autumn by adding a unique pattern to your nails and embraces this season’s trending colour palette of rich brown hues in a fun and playful way,’ says Juanita Huber-Millet, Creative Director at Townhouse. While darker tones are an inevitable choice for autumn (and explain the rise in malbec and cognac hues infiltrating social media right now), these animal prints feel a little more playful than classic monotone but without veering on the side of too lurid or too bright.

‘The brown and deep chocolate shades of a traditional tortoiseshell print are warm and cosy and, with these neutral shades, tortoiseshell nails can easily compliment an autumn/winter wardrobe; it’s not too overpowering or alternative for everyday wear,’ agrees Francis.

What are the new iterations this season?

This season, expect a tonne of new ways to experiment with the trend, starting with a fresh spin on the chocolate manicure trend. ‘Chocolate tones for the season are becoming increasingly popular and offer a nice alternative to burgundies and dark cherry shades. On short, natural nails, a glossy chocolate shade looks extremely chic and on darker skin tones, chocolate shades can provide the perfect nude,’ says Francis.

One way to embrace the trend is via mismatched nails, switching up between a deep chocolate shade and tortoiseshell. Alternatively, you could try tortoiseshell tips, a take on the minimalist micro French manicure.

Slightly softer is the lighter caramel tones which have been circulating recently too and offer up a washed-out watercolour aesthetic.

How to create tortoiseshell nails at home

The best news perhaps is that despite appearances they’re pretty easy to recreate yourself. Don’t be put off by what looks like an intricate design; with the assistance of a gel colour and some expert tips, even nail art novices can master the art of tortoiseshell tones.

‘When creating a tortoiseshell look at home, the key is to build up the layers to create depth,’ says Francis. ‘Using a piece of foil or palette, mix a small amount of a burnt orange shade like Nail Kind’s Lava Love with clear nail polish to create a sheer, jelly-like polish. Apply one coat to start, she says and then build up the design. ‘Next, create a jelly brown shade using Kure Bazaar’s Moka or a similar mocha tone and apply this as spots randomly on the nail using a bobby pin head. Once dry, apply a very thin coat of the jelly orange shade.’

You can then create a slightly deeper jelly brown shade and apply as spots on the nail, she adds. ‘Apply an opaque brown on some areas of the spots to build depth and top coat with a glossy, plumpy quick dry top coat such as CND Vinylux to smooth out the design.’

For more of a statement, you can even add a little embellishment, she concludes. ‘If you’re feeling fancy add some gold foil into the layers for extra depth or substitute the classic brown tortoiseshell for a more fun colour like purple or blue.’