Yes, L&L Hawaiian Barbecue is far from the Aloha State, but that doesn’t negate the distinctive dishes associated with those Pacific shores.
This is something many in Colorado Springs have discovered based on the steady flow of dine-in and carryout customers. In addition to such signature Hawaiian foods as loco moco, macaroni salad, manapua and Spam items are barbecue plates featuring a variety of proteins.
The combination BBQ Mix ($16.99) and chicken katsu ($11.99 for the smaller portion; $14.29 for the larger serving) are among the most popular items, as is the Kalua pork ($11.99 and $13.99), according to the person who greeted us.
A large menu practically fills the wall behind the counter where orders are placed. For L&L rookies, it takes a while to consider the possibilities before making a final decision. I noticed several diners ordered without hesitation, suggesting this was not a first-time visit for them.
We needed a lot of time before finally settling on the combination BBQ Mix plate ($16.99). This, like most of the entrees, comes with two scoops of white rice and one scoop of macaroni salad. The mix features teriyaki beef, barbecue chicken, barbecue pork chop or, for an extra $2, barbecue short ribs in place of the chop. We opted for the ribs.
This could have easily been enough food for two, although it would have been necessary to order an extra side of macaroni salad ($2.25). One scoop, although not small, is barely enough for one because it’s so creamy and slightly sweet.
A soy sauce-base marinade added sweet and savory flavors to the grilled meats, of which there was a substantial amount. The addition of the ribs, which were cut Korean style (against the grain into thin, long pieces) were well worth the upcharge. It was easy to see why the barbecue mix is such a hit.
The Kalua pork and Lau Lau Platter ($17.99) caught our interest, though I wish the person who took our order had provided a better explanation. Lau lau was new to me, which isn’t a bad thing. I’m glad I tried it, but I know I’ll never be a fan. The menu identifies it as an “authentic Hawaiian entrée made with pork and taro leaves.” The double asterisks following were hard to read, which I later learned indicated the dish “May contain traces of fish.”
That’s an understatement. The dark-green, steamed taro leaves look a lot like spinach and have a similar bitterness. A thick, misshapen ball of taro leaves encases pieces of marinated pork. It was difficult to identify the marinade flavors due to the overwhelming amount of taro leaves.
Thankfully, the Kalua pork on the same plate, along with the requisite rice and mac salad, was far more palate pleasing. The shredded pork was tender with tendrils of cooked cabbage mixed in.
L&L is a casual dining establishment. It’s possible you might wait longer for a place to sit than for the food, which comes out of the kitchen quickly. Staff is friendly and the decor is bright — like the Hawaiian Islands.