As temperatures drop, daytime shrinks and chilly breezes bluster in, many of us wallow in the fall blues. Instead, let’s celebrate the harvest with a rich bounty of hearty roots, fruits and gourds, robust cheeses and treasures from the sea, all emblematic of autumn.

Here are some food games for fall.

Go fish

I still remember the first time I indulged in a spiny lobster dinner served Puerto Nuevo-style (deep-fried in lard) with pico de gallo and ramekin of clarified butter while vacationing along the Baja coast many years ago. My jaw dropped in both awe and disappointment — alas, the claws were absent in this warm-water species.

Yet the tail (which practically played a mariachi song in my mouth) more than compensated for the missing appendages.

These delightful crustaceans, aka rock lobsters, are abundant in autumn caught fresh in San Diego Bay and in ocean waters off Point Loma. So get crackin’ with a scrumptious, protein-packed, low-fat grilled or steamed spiny while they’re good and plenty.

They’re loaded with heart-healthy omega-3’s, iron, magnesium, B vitamins, zinc to boost immunity and selenium for optimum thyroid functions.

Bobbing for apples

Sink your teeth into an aromatic Pink Lady, tart Granny Smith, delicate honeycrisp or one from the crop of new hybrids such as the super-sweet and crunchy Cosmic Crisp, magenta-skinned Pacific Rose and the SnapDragon, exuding spicy vanilla notes, all carrying a diabetic-friendly, low-glycemic load.

They’re also a great source of antioxidants, especially the Northern Spy and Ida Red varieties.

Apples, endowed with the richest source of pectin of all fruits, have been found to help lower bad cholesterol levels and reduce high blood pressure. Rich in quercetin, the mighty apple acts as a histamine buster to ease some allergic reactions. An apple a day does keep the doctor away.

To keep cut apples from turning brown, dip them in a solution of one part lemon juice and three parts water.

(Cheese)board games

To pick the best autumn cheeses for an impressive charcuterie board, follow the wedding proverb “Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue.”

Mix it up with a variety of semi-soft and hard cheeses from cow, sheep and goat milk, along with plant-based options.

For something old, select a savory aged cheddar or gouda like Teffenhardt with caramel nuances and a nice bite. Something new can come from the many non-dairy offerings, typically crafted from almond and cashew-milk bases, pea protein, tofu or coconut oil. Use something borrowed from the Alps of Italy, France and Switzerland, especially the dense and tangy Parmigiano-Reggiano, Gruyere and Appenzeller. As for something blue, try the fudgy Bayley Hazen Blue from raw whole cow’s milk, or other savory, peppery autumn-aged blues.

Pickleball, anyone?

The time is ripe to pick a peck of pickled peppers, along with cucumbers, beets, peaches, apples, pearl onions, green tomatoes and watermelon rinds to preserve the summer and early fall harvest and enliven everything from burgers and brats to lobster rolls and even ice cream (for pregnant cravings).

Pickling, one of the oldest methods of food preservation, traces back 5,000 years when Mesopotamians soaked vegetables and fruits in briny baths of salt, vinegar, herbs and spices until they became nicely fermented.

Today, pickled delights come in a diverse lineup to suit sweet, sour, tangy and spicy palates using any amalgam of pickling spices and liquids, including bay leaves, peppercorns, mustard seeds, allspice, cardamom, crushed chiles, sugar, garlic, dill, lemon juice and cider vinegar.

Let’s play squash

Winter squashes have invaded farmers markets, pulling you in with their assortment of shapes, colors and textures.

• The ever-popular acorn, palm-size with delicate, nutty nuances, makes an elegant side stuffed with assorted grains, wild mushrooms, cheeses or dried fruits, showing off its golden flesh.
• Spaghetti squash with pale, creamy flesh lacks the typical sweetness of other winter squashes, making it suitable for savory dishes. It blossoms into a mound of noodle-like strands when cooked and is frequently served like its namesake pasta, topped with marinara sauce and shredded Parmesan cheese.
• The mild-flavored delicata is reminiscent of sweet potatoes and resembles a large green-striped banana. It makes a nice changeup, whether stuffed and roasted, shredded in green salad or sliced shoestring and baked or fried.
• The super-size Hubbard bursts with big and bold flavors in its sweet, vibrant, orange flesh similar to a sugar pumpkin. Hubbard stands up well in soups, stews, quick breads and pies.
• Japanese kabocha, a squat, dark green pumpkin doppelganger, boasts high levels of antioxidants from the bright orange flesh, with a nutty, pungent kick. It is versatile in sweet and savory dishes alike.
• Turban squash, which brings to mind a cockeyed and flamboyant version of the headdress, enhances holiday tablescapes.
• Delicate butternut pairs well with autumn spices (ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves). This beige-skinned, pear-shaped beauty lends well to purees and soups, as it lacks the stringy fibers of its squash siblings.
• The buttercup, a squat, green-skinned gourd with sweet, nutty, dense flesh, gives an oomph to casseroles, baked goods and soup (see the accompanying recipe).

Recipe

Buttercup squash soup

(Serves 6)

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons butter

• ½ cup minced shallots

• 2 tablespoons brown sugar

• ¼ teaspoon (each) ground cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, cayenne pepper

• 2 3-pound buttercup squash, peeled, seeded, chopped

• 2 quarts vegetable stock

• 1 cup white wine

• 1 stalk lemongrass, split

• ¼ cup maple syrup

• 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

• ¼ cup heavy cream

• Sea salt and ground white pepper, to taste

Instructions:

• Melt butter in large pot over medium heat. Add shallots, sugar and spices. Cook 2 minutes without browning.

• Add squash, stock, wine and lemongrass. Bring to simmer. Cook 25 minutes or until squash is tender. Discard lemongrass.

• Puree soup in blender until smooth. Strain through sieve into pot.

• Whisk in maple syrup, ginger and cream. Bring to a simmer.

• Season to taste. Ladle into warm shallow bowls.

• Add a dollop of rock lobster salad in the center.

— Courtesy of chef Bernard Guillas ◆