The term “fashion watches” has long been used pejoratively. It denotes when luxury brands like Gucci or Armani enter the watch scene without a genuine commitment to the craft, merely licensing their names to generic manufacturers. If a watch has a well-known luxury brand on the dial, chances are that it’s not very good. One notable exception has been Louis Vuitton, whose in-house watchmaking, carried out by genuine artisans, has produced the Tambour —one of the finest sports watch releases in recent years, beating competitors from established watchmakers.

Hermès isn’t quite at the level of Louis Vuitton yet, but they’re striving to shed the fashion-watch label, producing increasingly impressive pieces. Their H08 sports watch, in particular, is a lovely design that has tempted many enthusiasts since its release. And as competitors like Cartier and Tiffany’s move upmarket in the watch space, Hermès have continued to improve their horology.

At April’s Watches & Wonders show in Geneva, Hermès unveiled three new watches, each one pushing the brand closer to being considered a ‘real’ watchmaker, albeit through different approaches.

The Cut collection is the simplest yet most commercial. It’s a pretty women’s watch that borrows many design cues from the H08 but in a more delicate package. This collection is expected to expand into an almost endless range of colors and variations, including bejeweled versions, sporty editions, and bright color options. However, the initial silver version, subtly accented with the maison’s signature orange on the dial, might be the collection’s pinnacle in terms of design.

The second watch to mention is their Arceau Chorus Stellarum, which is flashy, garish and unpleasant and isn’t of itself that interesting. But a watch like this takes a highly skilled internal team to make, and their ability to make this piece shows they have the potential to make truly interesting, intricate pieces down the line; like the third and most impressive watch showcased, the Arceau Duc Attelé.

At the heart of the Arceau Duc Attelé—and the center of its semi-skeletonized dial—are two of the most celebrated complications in horology: a three-axis tourbillon and a minute repeater, which chimes the time on request. This is intricate, complex watchmaking, and these features look spectacular in motion; but istead of flaunting them in a completely see-through case, Hermès chose to highlight them in the center, surrounded by a banded dial reminiscent of a Zen garden. The time is displayed with two inverted hands circling a ring subdial, but perhaps the best detail is the minute repeater’s rockers, fashioned in the shape of horses.

The only downside to the Arceau Duc Attelé is its limited production—only 24 units will be made.