Rihanna, Cardi B, Kylie Jenner, Kim Kardashian and Keira Knightley are just a few bold-faced names to have regularly worn wigs. Whether for hair loss, entertainment or everyday appearance, these next-level pieces are so meticulously constructed it’s near impossible to believe they aren’t the person’s own hair.

What was once associated with cheap, synthetic Halloween looks and other costume-driven aesthetics like Disneyland characters, has grown into a near $3 billion luxury wig industry. According to Fortune Business Insights, one-third of that amount can be attributed to the North American market, which includes the rise of human hair wigs and colorful, high-end wigs.

The report acknowledges the boom in wig purchases since the pandemic, when consumers began turning to this alternative to hair extensions. It also states a rise in wig purchases among the Black community, thanks to businesses like Weave and Vivica A. Fox Hair, made by Black women to lift up their community. The breakdown also notes the rise of wig purchases among consumers with alopecia or in chemotherapy treatment—and lastly, a huge boom in wig-wearing mannequins used to drive sales for fashion brands.

“I knew there was a need for this type of hair, and I didn’t know of any Black woman or person in this space in New York,” says Karen Mitchell, founder of 20-year luxury wig and extension brand, True Indian Hair. “I wanted to create a space where women would feel empowered by the way they look in real human hair extensions of the highest quality. To meet customer demand and growth in popularity, wigs were added to the product line around the fourth year.”

The brand, which develops lace front wigs that go up to $1,600, has grown to become a leading name in wigs and extensions, namely among the Black entertainment community.

“Our emphasis on quality starts with importing the best hairs to be used on our wigs,” says Mitchell, whose pieces have been worn by Rihanna, Taraji P. Henson, Mary J. Blige, Megan Thee Stallion and Cardi B. “Although our wigs are made in China, we import our own hair to the factory to ensure only the best quality of hair approved by us is used. This is followed up by our quality control after production. We hand-inspect each piece before it’s placed on our shelves or sold.”

True Indian Hair isn’t a transactional business for Mitchell—each sale offers an experience.

“We’re not just selling a wig,” she says. “It’s a lifestyle brand actively engaged with our customers to ensure their satisfaction. Our products are unprocessed human hair that has not been chemically treated. There are no permanent or semi-permanent colors, perms or relaxers used to alter the color, texture or curl pattern of the hair. And to prevent tangling, all the hairs are placed with cuticles in the same direction.”

UNice, another leading wig brand, positions itself as accessible luxury for the Black community.

“There’s a combination of high-quality materials and craftsmanship used,” says the brand’s expert stylist, Dayonna Worrell. “UNice offers premium human hair, which provides a natural look and feel. Attention to detail in the construction, such as lace fronts and hand-tied caps, enhances comfort and realism. The brand also stays updated with the latest fashion trends, offering styles and colors that appeal to contemporary tastes. This commitment to quality and style ensures that their products look and feel luxurious, despite the affordable pricing.”

As for how they keep their prices low?

“The brand streamlines its production and distribution processes,” Worrell shares. “They often source materials directly from suppliers, cutting down on costs associated with middlemen. By leveraging economies of scale, they produce wigs in larger quantities, reducing the per-unit cost. Additionally, they focus on direct-to-consumer sales, which eliminates the need for retail markups.”

The Allure of Russian Hair

The luxury wig industry is no joke. In fact, highest quality hair pieces go up to more than $10,000. Daniel Alain’s 100% ultra-premium European Grandeur wig starts at $12,259. Available in nine colors and one length, this is the price consumers pay for scarce, pure Russian human hair. Unlike commonly sourced Chinese and Indian hair, Russian hair cannot be bought in wholesale.

“The hair seller knows it, so if you don’t buy it at their price, someone else will,” explains a blog post on luxury hair site, Ouielle. “Why would he sell it cheaper? So, if you see a salon offering a full head of 22-inch Russian hair for around $350.00, you can be confident in knowing that this isn’t Russian. In fact, for that price, with the markups salons need to place in order to pay their bills, you could even assume it isn’t even 100% human hair.”

Daniel Alain, the only mainstream Russian hair supplier in the U.S., got into the sourcing business early on.

“We had about 400 people collecting hair all throughout Russia at the time,” says the brand’s founder and CEO, Daniel Alain Hafid. “We kept buying all the hair that we could, and we knew there would be an endgame. Russia’s gonna grow up, the salaries are gonna go up, and this won’t last for a long time. So we were collecting hair for about eight or 10 years. We have about 60,000 kilos of hair, which is about, I don’t know, $80 or $100 million worth of hair.”

Hafid insists, “Everybody besides us, they’re all selling Chinese hair and Indian hair. Nobody’s using real, authentic European hair or Russian hair.”

Aside from scarcity, the entrepreneur—who also manufactures much less costly, non-European wigs—explains the beauty of the Russian ponytail.

“When you get a ponytail from China or from India, it’s a reddish brown, right?” Hafid says. “It doesn’t pop. Like if you see a lady here walking down the street and she’s got blonde hair and she’s dyed it in a beauty salon and she goes out in the sun, it pops. When you get the Russian hair, it’s all golden brown, golden blonde. It pops.”

Depending on the quality of hair from the jump, Hafid says a wig can last anywhere from six months to eight years.

Making a Difference

Daniel Alain customers often fly to the brand’s picturesque Newport Beach, CA headquarters for personal consultations before making a purchase. It’s there that they’re made to feel at home, and get to watch a magical makeover unfold in seconds before their eyes.

“You can transform a woman in a couple of minutes,” Hafid says. “I mean, that’s a pretty big thing you’d be giving to somebody. Hair loss is really a sad thing that happens to a lot of women, and I think having [our pieces on their head] is one of the things they appreciate the most. It’s a big gratification. That’s what puts a smile on the face every day.”

For True Indian Hair’s part, they host an annual initiative for breast cancer survivors during Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Known as True Strength Glam Day, the brand partners with Pynk Magazine publisher Mecca Moore-Henson and Big Mouth Toothbrush founder and dentist, Dr. Bobbi Peterson. A head-to-toe makeover and dinner are provided to select cancer patients who’ve developed alopecia. The initiative also donates gifted wigs and extensions for similar makeovers to domestic violence organizations.

“It’s such a good feeling to give back,” Mitchell says of luxury wig industry perks. “Our goal is to put a smile on these women’s faces and empower them to feel good about themselves, even when facing adversity. Our mantra is when you look good, you feel good. The recipients of the makeovers leave feeling beautiful and empowered.”