I’m a firm believer in second chances. I’m even forgiving enough for third chances, but fourth? Jamie Oliver’s first new venture since the rather embarrassing collapse of his restaurant portfolio in 2019 is more of a 90 seconds to midnight kind of last chance. If he’d been a boyfriend, he’d be dumped and I’d still be in therapy.

After the domino-effect closure of Jamie’s Italians nationwide, the not-for-profit Cornwall restaurant and chef training school Fifteen, and the steakhouse and butchery Barbecoa, the Naked Chef has been noticeably absent from the restaurant scene. There’s been pop-ups and successful franchises abroad – and TV appearances and cookbooks, of course – but nothing in the UK.

You might have thought that after his restaurant group collapsed with more than £80m worth of debt, not to mention £2.2m owed in staff wages and a second-lowest hygiene rating at his butchery, that Oliver isn’t the man to approach to consult on opening a restaurant.