If I am honest, the kitchen’s potency actually seemed a little dulled during that second visit. My wife and I got an impulsive 9pm walk-in, settled in the mobbed, burbling darkness of a very busy dinner service and found ourselves see-sawing between delight and slight befuddlement. Here were comforting brandade toasts, soft in spirit and texture, plus a shared bottle of Josh (Renegade’s supple, spiced, Chianti-ish red). But here, also, was slightly dried-out pork loin and chips with a weedy “gravy”, thin and translucent enough to make most Northerners plot an especially brutal insurrection. Head chef Phil Wood is clearly keen on keeping things fresh, changeable and hyper-seasonal; Saltine is also already acclimatising to the pressure that comes from being very popular (there was a Bafta-winning actress amid the Toast-wearing hordes during that second trip). These two things may bump up against each other now and then.