We will come, soon enough, to Singapulah’s intriguing backstory and its manifold multisensory distractions; we will come to the richly staged retro interior, the stacked displays of purchasable larder items, and the flavours that, at their best, flare and sparkle with jolting, technicolour vividness. But, in the case of this Soho launch from Singaporean restaurateur Ellen Chew, I’m moved to begin with The Uncooperative Beef Rib Rendang.