The elegance and punch of those first dishes will be familiar to fans of Sherratt’s cooking at his old haunt, Brixton’s Naughty Piglets. But, as things progressed — through a gathered pile of courgettes, dehydrated black olives and feta, a thrilling but modestly proportioned wild garlic duck Kyiv on transcendent piped mash — the limitations of a very small kitchen, set up more for prep and assembly work than very involved, to-order cooking, became an issue. This went hand in hand with a fresh volatility on the palate. Now and then, as with Devon crab and satay sauce with a bullying hit of yuzu, the Bear’s operatic flavours can feel like they are being blasted discordantly through tinny phone speakers.