These days, however, I have belatedly started to appreciate the virtues of a capital B, Antipodean-style brunch. First came a January trip to Sydney: a place where a clothed torso counts as formal wear, and the all-day eating culture is exactly as accomplished, alluring and boundlessly inventive as every Australian you know says it is. And now I have fallen pretty hard for Tashas — a Battersea-based, first UK outpost for restaurateur Natasha Sideris’s South African café chain and a place that is meticulous in composition, breezy and generous in effect, and dusted with enough intangible, southern hemisphere magic to turn even the terminally brunch-averse into true believers.