Sure, the army of Louboutin-wearing, Birkin-swinging figures who qualify for a lap on DiCaprio’s yacht might be a tad intimidating, but the silken tzatziki and taramasalata with warm, sesame-speckled koulouri and pita bread are far more beguiling. A puff of dough filled with ksinomitzithra, graviera and anthotyros cheese, topped with shaved truffle table-side, adds a sprinkling of theatre, though it’s the fish plucked from a shimmering shoal on ice that steals the show. Tomato and garlic-drenched prawn saganaki and butter-soft, lightly charred octopus offer devilish, breath-altering delight, while the grilled snapper is expertly basted with lemon and sliced jalapeños to balance its sweetness.