Seeing as I reviewed a £15/head lunchtime corker in the north west last week (Twenty Eight in Chester), I am wondering if I’m okay to do a billion-quid omakase in Notting Hill today? Am I? Do you mind?

I haven’t reviewed a London omakase joint in a while because they are so stupidly expensive that it had started to seem rude. Who could possibly afford to pay £200-£400 each, not including drinks and service, to sit up at a sushi counter in a small room and be fed 15-20 courses of mostly raw fish dishes chosen by the chef?

It’s not like you even get to choose when you eat. The economics of the thing and the nature of the “performance” mean that