‘We have enough clothes for the next six generations,’ says Kate V M Sylvester, whose work My Favourite T-Shirt was selected as a finalist of We the Makers Sustainable Fashion Prize 2023.

She continues: ‘Sustainable fashion, for me, is about an industry that has more transparent protocols regarding the circular life of the clothing that we make. Everything we could ever need for clothing already exists.

‘Sustainability is such a buzz word, like “superfoods” and “organic”, but it has become yet another marketing hack for big businesses,’ she adds. ‘How do we make things more sustainable; how do you end greed?’

This year, the Sustainable Fashion Prize shortlisted 20 entries from Australian and international emerging fashion designers. In trying to understand what sustainable fashion actually entails from an artist/
designer and consumer perspective, ArtsHub speaks with Sylvester and fellow finalist, Arrernte woman Jasmine-Skye Marinos.

While Sylvester’s practice and perspective looks at concepts like reuse and transparency, Marinos says the ethical side of designing sustainable fashion is what interests her.

‘For me, as an Aboriginal person, [sustainable fashion] is the use of materials – materials that are biodegradable and from nature,’ explains Marinos. ‘It’s important for me to share cultural traditions and knowledge through my designs, including using weaving and hand-gathering. Our ancestors have always lived off the land and used whatever they could find.’

Her shortlisted entry for the Sustainable Fashion Prize is the Kaweerr Koorran Dress, made entirely from natural raffia and hand-gathered emu feathers. It’s an example of First Nations basket-weaving techniques applied to fashion.

How can we change our attitude towards sustainable fashion?

Sylvester says that, in order to make sustainable fashion the norm, a nuanced approach is required, from manufacturing through to visual merchandising. ‘It needs legislative stance from governments and greater demands for better products from consumers, but I think a big part of that too has to do with visual merchandising. Online shopping means that endless amounts of items are just a click away.’

In terms of issues to watch out for in sustainable fashion, Sylvester says beware of “greenwashing” and false advertising. ‘When something is extremely cheap, it means that someone along the supply chain is missing out,’ she adds.

For Marinos, what we need may already exist. ‘First Nations people are often not being recognised for some of the sustainable practices that they have done for many, many years… I recently did some research and found that 60% of our clothing produced over the world is made with some form of plastic in the garment. So, for me, sustainability meant using the right choice of materials in my design.’

In many ways, the Sustainable Fashion Prize is also breaking preconceptions of what sustainable fashion can be and look like, without sacrificing expression for ethics. From Lazarus Gordon’s theatrical dress made from vintage lace to Jedda Bahloo’s quilted coat constructed using fabric scraps, it opens up the aesthetic possibilities that may not usually be associated with “sustainability”. Sustainable Fashion Prize 2023 winner, 35 Life by Canwen Zhang further blends Chinese cosmology with garments that combat pressing environmental threats.

Sylvester’s technique in (de)constructing My Favourite T-shirt was born out of boredom – she would pick at her school jumper during her high school years – but has evolved to become something fun and therapeutic. She adds: ‘As artists and designers, we all have the power to reveal the excess of materials, but also show how they can be translated into new options. Being part of We the Makers Sustainable Fashion Prize, you can see there are so many innovative and exciting designers involved. [Senior Curator, National Wool Museum] Josephine Rout actually said she could have the whole show at least two or three times over with the amount of talent that’s come through.’

In terms of advice for emerging designers, Sylvester offers: ‘I think having a multidisciplinary practice is the best way to inform any kind of evolution. Always keep experimenting with different forms of creativity and say “yes” to every opportunity. But, most of all, be true to yourself, so you can really stand by your own messaging.’

Marinos shares a similar view: ‘Stay true to yourself and consider the ethical design of your clothing, whether that be the use of materials or impact on the environment.’

Something we could do

Some brands and companies have their own recycling programs, including Country Road, which re-shreds 30% of its textiles to rebound with virgin cotton, and UNIQLO Recycle. However, more can always be done. ‘Instead of the word “sustainable”, we need to be thinking about “circular”,’ says Sylvester. ‘Did you know that there is a textile mountain of discarded clothes that you can see from space? I would love it if fashion houses were going out there, digging up the landfills and working out how to use these materials.’

Sylvester continues: ‘It’s about the curiosity around materials we already have. The idea of reusing an item as is can be a little bit dull, but this way we can look at these items without that consumer guilt. I think we are far more motivated by beauty and love to make the right decisions, rather than “the planet’s dying and it’s all your fault”.’

Instead of getting something new, think about creative options to revamp your old garments that will truly make them one of a kind. This could be cutting pant legs or a shirt sleeve to make them summer-ready, or adding accessories like buttons, patches and embroidery.

Marinos adds: ‘We love to express ourselves in Aboriginal culture. Not only do I design clothing, but also jewellery that’s biodegradable… Supporting First Nations-run businesses like Clothing the Gaps is a form of allyship and I’d love for more cultural knowledge to be shared through fashion.’

However, it’s important to be cautious of some Aboriginal designs that ‘come from overseas and are also mass-produced,’ warns Marinos. ‘We need to ensure that culture is expressed through fashion, but in an ethical way. The artwork might’ve been stolen or not properly attributed to Aboriginal people for their designs.’

Read: Fashion – the quirky and unexpected

Sylvester encourages swapping clothing items with friends, and there are also fashion swaps on social media and organised events.

Another thing to avoid doing is dumping all clothes at op shops, which often don’t have the capacity to sort through textile waste. Make sure what you donate is of a quality and in a condition that is resalable. If not, Upparel is an online service that collects unwanted clothing, shoes and other textiles for recycling.

We the Makers Sustainable Fashion Prize 2023 finalist exhibition is on new at the National Wool Museum, Geelong until 29 October.

We the Makers is presenting a series of programming throughout Geelong Design Week from 19-29 October.