Kampong Ah Lee is a Malaysian canteen on Clerk Street in Newington, Edinburgh. Or as I like to think of it, the capital’s unofficial Chinatown. Why here? Because there are about 7,250 Asian students at Edinburgh University, 5,000 of whom are from China. And Newington, once the prestigious address of dukes and provosts, is these days the beating heart of student-land. So if you live for homemade wonton pork noodles, hand-pulled noodles, hotpot, ramen made with eight-hour broth, dim sum, bibimbap, Taiwanese bubble tea and the best bao in town (here’s looking at you, Sister Bao), this is where to go.

I love heading up here on the 49 bus from Leith. It’s the part of Edinburgh that feels most big city-ish: young, diverse, hectic,