Syracuse, N.Y. — Sides and accompaniments rarely get their due in restaurant reviews, so we must give credit to L.M. Social in Armory Square for its risotto. Presented in a circular mound, about twice the size of a hockey puck, the rice was starchy and creamy, no doubt from the significant amount of cheese used in its preparation.

There was a stiffness to it, holding its construction which allowed it to mingle with the variety of flavors on the plate. With the restaurant’s signature French ribeye (market priced at $65), it took on notes of the herbed Cafe de Paris finishing butter and ascended to an entirely different level. Take the risotto, add a helping of the butter and you would have an exceptional standalone dish.

The Frenched rib bone of the steak gave the dish a bit of a class without the showiness of a tomahawk steak. Cooked to order at medium-rare, the well-marbled steak carried a rich, buttery beef flavor.

L.M. Social is the next evolution of Le Mélange, the self-anointed vibe dining restaurant that opened in October 2022. It quickly outgrew its West Fayette Street home in what previously was The Stoop. It moved to the space formerly inhabited by Lemon Grass and Bistro Elephant on West Jefferson Street in August 2023, across from the Museum of Science and Technology.

Our waiter explained the menu as French-inspired, though there were Italian, Greek and North African influences throughout. The results were true to its former name; it certainly was a mixture.

Take the scallop smoke show ($16), for instance. Massive prosciutto-wrapped scallops were pan-seared and served over a sweet potato mash and served in a smoke dome. It sounded interesting enough to order but delivered middling results. The prosciutto was a non-factor in the flavor of the scallops, which were fresh and sweet. The sweet potato mash had fallen apart at some point between the kitchen and our table, leaving a spicy orange puree topped with an out-of-place pineapple salsa surrounded by a moat of brown sugar syrup. The smoke was truly a show, having not absorbed into any element of the dish.

A kitchen torch and Fresno chilies brought fire to the blazing shrimp stack ($21). A standing skewer of chile-rubbed grilled shrimp was served with roasted chilies and a roasted red pepper and chile puree. The platter was set ablaze tableside for a dramatic presentation.

The jumbo shrimp were spicier than expected, at about a medium Buffalo wing heat, but not so much that it affected the fresh flavors of the shellfish.

Another stacked starter offered a cooling touch to the palate. The cucumber crunch ($14) featured thin-sliced cucumber layered with salty whipped feta and topped with hot honey and toasted walnuts. It was one of the few items on the menu where all of the flavors were unified, between the salty cheese, cool vegetable, and spice and sweet from the honey.

Unevenness was a theme that extended to the entrees.

Salmon confit ($28) was soft and delicate from its preparation, cooked slowly at a low temperature in fat, and benefited from a blend of subtle flavors. The beurre blanc provided a bit of acidic creaminess from the combination of butter and white wine. Hints of lemon were noticeable but not in your face. The fish had a chance to stand front and center as the star, plated next to a side of risotto and green beans.

For every ribeye and salmon, there was a cacio e pepe ($22). This simple pasta dish was dry and tacky, lacking that bit of sauce made from butter and cooking liquid that binds the dish.

Vadouvan paella (market priced at $65) was neither Vadouvan or a paella. Vadouvan is a French-style curry with a flavor profile that is sweet, slightly smoky and savory. The tomato- and chile-based sauce carried the heat of a hot Buffalo wing. Despite that, each expertly prepared seafood element maintained its distinct flavor. The Spanish paella is a rice dish of meats and seafood, which cook together, creating a harmonious balance of flavors. This was seafood and curry sauce served over rice.

The caramel apple cake ($14) was top notch, full of warming cinnamon and nutmeg. The cream cheese frosting had just the right amount of sweetness as did the apple filling. Conversely, the blackout cake ($14) – a three-tiered chocolate cake with layers of ganache – offered little in the way of flavor.

Service was very good, though hampered by a tightly packed dining room of tables on top of one another. Staff regularly apologized for bumping into guests while moving through the dining area or taking them on circuitous routes to their tables.

The consensus among our group was the dishes lacked unity. There were a lot of flavors on each plate, but rarely did they work together harmoniously. Nothing conflicted, but it was like watching a band where everyone was trying to take a solo at the same time. The dishes at L.M. Social offer a lot of style, but less in the way of substance and depth, two crucial elements for any restaurant, but especially one at this price point.

The Details

The Restaurant: L.M. Social, 238 W Jefferson St, Syracuse; (315) 396-0014.

Takeout/Delivery? Takeout is available by calling the restaurant.

Reservations? Yes, by calling the restaurant or using OpenTable.

Credit cards? Yes.

Noise level: Noisy. Tables are seated very close to one another, so your conversations may bleed together.

Access to the disabled: Restrooms and entryways have plenty of room, but aisles in the dining room are very tight.

Parking: On-street metered parking, private lots and garages are your options.

Special diets? The menu notes vegetarian and dairy- and gluten-free dishes. Nuts were used in at least one dish during our visit.

Children’s menu? No.

Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 4 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Cost: Most menu items are $20 or more. There are also several market-priced entrees. Dinner for four with beverages, starters, entrees, dessert, tax, and 20% gratuity was $464.64.

****

Jared Paventi is a restaurant critic for syracuse.com and The Post-Standard. You can reach him at [email protected] and follow him on Twitter/X, Threads, or Bluesky. Sign up for our free weekly Where Syracuse Eats newsletter here.

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