Burberry’s creative director, Daniel Lee, on Monday showed his third brief at London Fashion Week, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary, with an ode to the brand’s outdoor heritage for the luxury house’s autumn-winter 2024 collection. Set in a dark marquee in London’s Victoria Park where guests sat on big fluffy brown cushions, songs from late British singer Amy Winehouse set the mood for the night.

The star-studded show was attended by actress Olivia Coleman, U.S. Vogue Editor in Chief Anna Wintour, model Jourdan Dunn, and Irish actor Barry Keoghan among others. (Also Read | New York Fashion Week: Pregnant model, mom with a baby, and a trans physically disabled model rule Collina Strada show)

Monday’s show heavily featured outerwear and sporty silhouettes with bomber jackets and Burberry’s iconic trench coat that sat alongside flowy beaded and velvet dresses.

It noticeably lacked the brand’s new signature ‘Knight Blue’, the same colour featured in its “takeover” of British department store Harrods this month.

Models walked down a grass runway on chunky-soled leather boots, parading leather and faux-fur coats in shades of muted green and brown, oversized stripy suit jackets and trousers with sipper detailing.

British models Naomi Campbell, Agyness Deyn and Lily Cole were among those sashaying on the catwalk.

Burberry’s famous beige, black and red check was reimagined into the moody Autumnal colour palette and featured on the inside of floor-sweeping skirts with long slits down the side.

Accessories included checked umbrellas, large canvas, leather and faux-fur bags in cream, brown and green – often adorned with gold detailing – and paired with scarves worn over the head.

Lee, who was behind the revamp of Italian fashion brand Bottega Veneta, is facing pressure to produce a winning collection for Burberry which is battling a slowdown in demand for luxury goods.

The 168-year-old company issued a warning on its profits in January, a setback for Chief Executive Jonathan Akeroyd who is seeking to reposition the brand as “modern British luxury”. (Reporting by Suban Abdulla; Editing by Sandra Maler)