When thinking about longboards in Colorado, I envision snow sports or skate parks, but Longboard Tacos is trying to change that mindset to focus on coastal cuisine.
Unfortunately, it might be a hard sell. Despite the multiple surfboards, faux palm trees and general ocean vibe, the food does little to transport me from our Front Range locale. Nonetheless, the restaurant earns kudos for effort, if not execution.
Of course, tacos are featured with an impressive array of possible fillings, but there is more to the menu. Several starters tempt the appetite, so we began with queso blanco ($9). Thin, house-made chips are piled high on a plate surrounding a bowl filled with queso, a mound of chorizo and a spoonful of guacamole. The chips had a wonderful freshness, but are almost paper thin, which means they easily break when scooping. Still, we did our best to get some of the creamy cheese on the chip with as little breakage as possible. The chorizo was surprisingly salty — this also sidetracked some of our entrees.
Much of the fare has a south of the border influence; this includes our orders of migas ($9) and chicken tinga torta ($13).
Migas here are similar to chilaquiles since they’re scrambled eggs mixed with corn tortilla chips. The variation comes with the addition of chorizo and smashed potatoes. It’s topped with cheese, sour cream and pico de gallo. The potatoes arrived whole served on the side. Yes, they were soft enough to smash on our own, but that wasn’t what was advertised. Even adding them to the egg and chip mixture did little to alleviate the abundance of salt in the dish.
At first glance, the Kalua pork ($15) seemed out of place until I thought about the surf decor. Too much salt was also a problem with it. We appreciated the huli huli sauce. The sweet yet savory blend of soy sauce and sugar tempered the brininess of the tender, pulled pork. The dish included a mound of rice, which was undercooked, and creamy, well-seasoned macaroni salad. Grilled pineapple on the side was a nice addition.
The chicken tinga torta ($13) is served with house chips along with a side of salsa. Shredded chicken with coleslaw, Oaxaca cheese and a purported cilantro lime sauce were contained within a thick, oval-shaped roll. The slaw was described on the menu as spicy, but my companion added bottled hot sauce for more flavor. We neither saw nor tasted evidence of the cilantro lime condiment.
We’d have been remiss in not ordering tacos. We thought the barbacoa ($5.50) was the best with tender shredded roasted meat and smoky tomatillo salsa. The carnitas ($4.50), with crispy pork and pico de gallo, spilled out of the tortillas.
The crispy avocado ($4.50) was ordered out of curiosity. A crunchy coating covered a small section of avocado. While the combo of textures was nice, the amount was disappointing.
On the plus side, service was exemplary. Our server handled several tables while also tending the bar. We never felt neglected, and she happily answered questions.
Longboard Tacos
Coastal Mexican fare
Location: 1895 Democracy Point
Contact: 1719-884-2866; longboardtacos.com
Prices: $4 to $38
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday
Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor dining.
Favorite dishes: Barbacoa taco and house-made chips.
Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.