Having waited outside for the doors to officially open, our critic was the first paying customer at the new Kicky’s in Dublin 2
Wild brill on the bone, pickled red dulse, unwaxed lemon butter, Castletownbere shrimp and Lissadell cockles. Photo by Lucinda O’Sullivan
Today at 03:30
The dramatic decor in the new Kicky’s, headlined by Leah Hewson’s retro, psychedelic, flash-bang-wallop artwork exploding over what, in theatrical circles, they’d call the proscenium arch, masterfully showcases the players on stage in the open kitchen below. If you want a front-row seat to this performance, nab a stool on the long cool bar or a table for two at the side. I was happily in what I called the Dress Circle — comfortably set on the banquette just inside the door, where I could see all of the comings and goings.
As I’ve said before, I don’t join the brigade who flock to soft openings or events hosted by the restaurants and their PR companies. There’s no such thing as a free lunch, and reviews on the basis of those visits certainly come with a price — your conscience.