Dearborn deli delights the tastebuds.

A Jewish-style delicatessen might seem like an oxymoron in Dearborn, a predominately Christian and Muslim city in Wayne County; yet Mati’s Deli on Monroe Street has been a pillar of its community for more than three decades.

Mati’s offers typically big, overstuffed sandwiches and homemade soups, but won’t be mistaken for an Oakland County deli. Case in point: Mati’s owner Lou Weinstein took out the fresh dill he’d started adding to the restaurant’s chicken noodle soup when his regular customers gave it a thumb’s down. He succeeded by pleasing his clientele.

Remembered now for “his funny, adventurous and loving spirit,” the deli owner tragically lost his life this summer. As reported at the time, Weinstein, 63, of Wyandotte died Aug. 1 in a scuba-diving accident at White Star Quarry. The inland diving spot is an hour’s drive south of Toledo in Gibsonburg, Ohio. Ira Kaufman Chapel handled funeral arrangements.

“He was very active,” recalled Barbara Friedman, Lou’s partner of 12 years. Other sports he participated in included skiing, boating and hockey. Barbara didn’t typically work at Lou’s restaurant, she said, but rose to the occasion a couple of years ago “when he broke his pelvis in a horseback-riding accident.”

Lou also possessed a philanthropic spirit, said his son, Gerald “Jerry” Weinstein, a degreed accountant and “tech guy” for the restaurant. “Dad donated to Little League and other local groups.

“But he was very quiet about his generosity,” Jerry continued. “I once saw ‘Mati’s Deli’ listed as a supporter at the end of a PBS program. I called up Dad because that was a surprise. He’d never mentioned being a sponsor.”

Five workers at the deli faced an uncertain future with Lou gone and the restaurant on hiatus. Losing their livelihood was something the owner’s two children knew he never would have wanted. Lou’s daughter, Brittany Weinstein, who works primarily as a grant writer at Wayne State University in Detroit, started a GoFundMe campaign in early August. Before the drive’s conclusion, nearly $7,000 was raised in support of the deli’s loyal staff. Jerry said they are: Kelly and Heather, the main cashiers; Angie and Tammy, who work the sandwich station, cut meat and do prep work, and Tanna, in charge of prep and other duties.

Payments from the fund kept the team intact for the restaurant’s reopening on Sept. 12. Lou’s family hired “Uncle Lance” Farkas, an experienced deli man, to serve as the general manager. He and Lou worked together at Al Winkler’s Original Bread Basket Deli, still operating with a different owner in Oak Park. In addition, Lou was employed for a time at the former Sweet Lorraine’s restaurant in Southfield. He joined the deli business at age 15.

By 1990, Lou was looking to start his own deli. “It all came together — the right place, at the right time, at the right price,” said Jerry, when Lou found Mati’s, an established deli of four years, up for sale.

The restaurant is uniquely housed within a late-1920s Shell gas station on Monroe at Tenny streets, a half mile south of Michigan Avenue. The art deco-style building features a white subway-tiled exterior with black trim, decorative glass blocks and turquoise paint. There is outdoor seating at wooden picnic tables under turquoise umbrellas in season.

A mural made of Edward Hopper’s moody 1942 painting Nighthawks, depicting a late-night diner, draws immediate attention. The 900-square-foot restaurant also displays framed restaurant reviews and memorabilia in the left corner. A large wall menu that’s been hanging up for 37 years is adjacent to the order counter on the right side of the room, in front of an open kitchen.

Guests sit at small tables or the front window countertop. For a large order, especially serving more than two diners, it might be best to choose the counter and spread everything out. The portions here are generous.

“We are best known for our corned beef and rye bread, which we also sell by the loaf,” Jerry said.

Since the demise this year of Star Bakery in Oak Park, the main supplier used is Superior Bread Company in Livonia. My favorite deli sandwich choice, here titled “Ellen’s Favorite,” consists of hot corned beef (from distributor Sy Ginsberg), coleslaw, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing, on double-baked Jewish rye. The sandwich pleased me more on my second visit, because then I knew to order the corned beef lean. This extra service is done without charge, by the way. I also requested my “senior discount,” worth 5 percent of the bill. Jerry said to ask for meat to be trimmed and the senior discount, if applicable, when ordering.

Besides regular deli sandwiches, the menu lists “Mati’s Favorites.” These choices include “Brittany’s Ticket,” focused on roast brisket of beef; “Hank’s Delight,” combining corned beef and pastrami, and “Brian’s Wish,” highlighting the restaurant’s popular chicken salad. Two of the “Lite Sandwiches” are egg salad and grilled cheese. Under the “Low Sodium & Cholesterol” heading, Mati’s offers the healthier options of chicken breast, chicken pita and veggie pita. The latter pita pocket includes broccoli, tomato, lettuce, peapods, mushrooms, red onion, low-salt cheddar and low-cal Ranch dressing.

Mati’s makes seven salads, with Greek, Peking chicken and Caesar among them. I thought my potato salad had just the right amount of crunchy celery and a light, tasty dressing. Chili is offered daily, along with cream of broccoli and chicken noodle soups — add a large, fluffy matzah ball for another $1.50. Other soups rotate. Variety and value are found in the Combo: a bowl of soup and a half-sandwich.

Referring to more items, knishes made from a family recipe are crispy outside with a soft mashed potato and cheddar filling. After trying one of Lou’s Cream Cheese Brownies, the taste made clear why they’re award-winners.

Carryout and catering are other parts of the business, and dining room hours are 10 a.m.-6 p.m. weekdays and until 3 p.m. Saturday.

As everyone at Mati’s Deli adjusts to the new era without Lou, his son offered a public message: “Want to support us? Come in and order a sandwich and leave the girls a tip.”

Lou Weinstein was interviewed about Mati’s Deli in a YouTube video recorded shortly before his passing. 

Mati’s Deli

1842 Monroe Street

Dearborn, MI 48124

Phone: (313) 277-3253

Matisdeli.com

** ½ out of ****