Colagreco’s eponymous space is the biggest in stature but aims for something atmospherically humble — Argentine ballads trill from the stereo. We went for the £110, three-course a la carte (there is a £165 five-courser and a £60 set lunch) and, soon, ornate, all-vegetarian canapés were set down — jolting little lavender and hibiscus tartlets and, most memorably, a pair of heady, brittle celeriac tacos. If this was an introduction to Colagreco and head chef Leonel Aguirre’s emphasis shift to the glories of the plant kingdom, then the starters showed the good and bad of this approach. A scallop and broccoli dish was sublime: thin shavings of cruciferous stalk and a miso-spiked green goo poured over buttery, warm coco beans and sweet lobes of confit bivalve.