When I told my friends I was going to Miami for the week, the inevitable response was some combination of suggestive eyebrow-waggling and asking how many lewd bacchanals I had planned. “No, it’s not a party story — it’s a press trip about Miami’s arts and culture scene,” I’d say.

“Oh, yeah,” they’d nod knowingly, “Art Basel.” And I’d have to tell them, again, that, no, this was a trip to explore beyond the annual art event that has come to dominate the city’s cultural reputation.