“Fashion is a means to cultural integration. It blends cultures and varied sensibilities to make something that is beautiful and unites everyone,” says New York-based fashion designer Mrinalini Kumari who has come a long way after she landed her first gig with Ralph Lauren and has never looked back since then. A famous Indian name in haute couture in the United States, Mrinalini Kumari spoke to WION about crafting a unique career in fashion, representing Indian sensibilities on the international stage, and crafting designs for icons like Beyoncé and Michelle Obama.

Here are the excerpts from our chat:

WION: Tell us a little about your journey into the American fashion industry.

Mrinalini Kumari: My journey in the American fashion industry has been nothing but intriguing – I relocated to New York from Delhi. Driven by my passion for design and specifically for embroidery, I always knew that I wanted to use this craft to create my own space in the fashion industry. I embarked on a journey that led me to remarkable opportunities – it all began when I landed a meeting with Ralph Lauren. This breakthrough not only validated my skills but also opened doors to the heart of American fashion.

WION: How did the Ralph Lauren gig happen?

Mrinalini Kumari: Ralph Lauren was my first big client. Landing an assignment with such an iconic brand was a massive highlight for me. One fine day, I just walked up to Ralph Lauren in a store and told him that I do embroidery. He gave me a meeting and I landed my first gig. 

WION: What would you say your signature style is, if at all?

Mrinalini Kumari: My signature look is luxurious, and glam. I like to make a statement with my selections – try to create a look that is elegant and glamorous whether it is for a red-carpet event or a laid-back day at the office.

WION: As a designer from India who now designs for an audience that primarily lives in the US, how do you feel about the role of fashion in preserving and promoting cultural identity?

Mrinalini Kumari: I see fashion as a means to cultural integration. It blends cultures and varied sensibilities to make something that is beautiful and unites everyone. A designer or an artist brings their understanding, backgrounds, and indelible experiences to their designs – their country, family, surroundings, and the entire ecosystem are reflected in their creations. I have personally felt that my craft is the way I preserve my unique identity amidst a sea of global trends.

The fact that fashion keeps evolving is because it encourages a more inclusive and diverse representation, challenging stereotypes and promoting a more equitable narrative. An Indian motif seen on a glorious dress made by an American at a fashion week in Paris, worn by a model from a different nationality – there is nothing more uniting. Fashion becomes a conversation starter as cultures interact and affect one another. In addition to producing fresh, cutting-edge looks, cultural fusion in fashion promotes mutual respect and understanding between many populations.

WION: Fashion has the power to make social and cultural statements. How have you used your platform and designs to communicate the story of your origins?

Mrinalini Kumari: Indian artisans, with their unwavering dedication and expertise, have shaped generations of fashion. Yet, their remarkable contributions often go unnoticed and undervalued. Through my designs, I have endeavoured to bring these artisans to the forefront, allowing their intricate artistry to shine and speak for itself.

My platform as a fashion designer has provided me with the opportunity to showcase the beauty and depth of Indian culture to a global audience. These opportunities have also enabled me to engage with fashion enthusiasts and industry experts, fostering cross-cultural dialogue and appreciation for Indian artistry.

India has long been a center for its distinct and exquisite textile designs. However, our artisans and designers often remain behind the scenes, their contributions overshadowed by international brands. My designs serve as a tribute to these unsung heroes of Indian fashion – the artisans who tirelessly weave their passion and skill into every thread.

WION: How do you feel about technology finding its way through the world of fashion, much like other industries? 

Mrinalini Kumari: Technology is the new driver and influencer in a way. I am eager to witness how new advancements transform the way we conceptualise, create, present fashion and possibly wear fashion. 3D printing and digital fabrication have the potential to create fresh, customised designs, enabling bespoke fashion tailored to individual preferences. Virtual reality and augmented reality promise immersive and interactive experiences, allowing consumers to visualise clothing realistically before purchasing.

Overall, I think technology can help in taking over repetitive tasks so that us designers can focus on creativity.