Lobster poached in butter, supernatural in sweetness and tenderness, at Eulalie, a new spot for French, American and southern cuisine in Manhattan’s TriBeCa neighborhood, on Jan. 11, 2024. Eulalie seems blithely clueless about TikTok trends, plating trends, just about any trend you can think of, but for many, it will be a welcome break from today’s impersonal, transactional restaurants, Pete Wells writes. (Colin Clark/The New York Times)