Day one will commence with Weinsanto, one of the younger brands that stole the limelight this summer during the opening ceremony of the Paris Olympics, alongside Maitrepierre and Germanier, which are each showing on Tuesday.

Julie Gilhart, previously long-time fashion director at Barneys who recently relaunched her consultancy Gilhart & Co, is looking forward to Alainpaul, who’s showing for the first time as part of the official fashion week calendar. The Hong Kong-born designer, who studied to be a contemporary ballet dancer before joining Vetements and Louis Vuitton in Virgil Abloh’s design studio, finally formed his namesake label in 2023. “He has been the talk of all fashion circles since his first show off calendar at Théâtre du Châtelet in September last year,” Gilhart says. The collection was gender fluid and inspired by the ballet world.

Expect an LVMH Prize effect on the attendance of shows belonging to Ellen Hodakova Larsson, who was awarded the top LVMH Prize on 11 September (off-calendar on 24 September at 1.30pm), Duran Lantink, who was awarded the Karl Lagerfeld Prize (29 September at 1pm), and finalists Marie Adam-Leenaerdt (24 September at 12pm) and Niccolò Pasqualetti (29 September at 11.30am). Christopher Esber, who scooped the 2024 Andam Prize, returns to this season’s presentation calendar.

For the first time, Danish cult brand Ganni is showing in Paris, off calendar at 3.30pm on 24 September, straight after Dior and a few hours before Saint Laurent. That’s what we call making an entrance.

As previously reported, Maison Margiela is among the notable absentees from the show schedule but is planning to host a film premiere on 30 September. Y/Project was due to return to the calendar after skipping a season, yet those plans changed when Glenn Martens stepped down from his role as creative director earlier this month. The collection will be presented through a lookbook instead. Ludovic de Saint Sernin is also not showing, despite being on the calendar initially. “2024 has been an incredible year for Ludovic de Saint Sernin in terms of visibility and positioning. As the company continues to grow, and as part of its long-term strategy to strengthen the business foundations and foster further development, we have decided not to do a show and will present the collection differently this season,” a spokesperson wrote over email.