Rayuela, which is a brilliant new local Spanish joint on Ealing Broadway that I hope will set the tone for this column in 2024, was a complete shot in the dark from my point of view.

I’d received a direct message on Instagram from an unnamed person there, back in September 2023, who wrote, “Hello Mr Coren, we would like to invite you to our newly opened Spanish restaurant *double hearts-for-eyes emoji* in London. Our authentic and unique Spanish atmosphere with modern food and privacy creates an opportunity to truly enjoy the food and the company you’re with.”

I replied, rather tersely, for I am a busy man and take myself incredibly seriously, “Where in Spain are you from and what sort of food do