Home House, the iconic London Members’ Club, has a new Group Executive Chef, Jeremy Brow, at the helm. So how does his spring menu measure up? Rebecca Cox reviews for Country & Town House.
Review: Home House Restaurant
The thing I love most about Home House is that no two visits are the same. One day you’ll pop in for a quick after-work drink and roll out seven hours later, with a phone book full of new friends and a fast-developing headache. Another, you’ll arrive at lunchtime for a quick call between meetings and leave with a notebook full of ideas and a venue for the launch of your latest venture. Something peculiar happens to time in Home House and though no two visits are the same, two things can always be relied upon: you will stay longer than you intended, and you will meet someone interesting. On this occasion, the restaurant was my base for the evening, tucked in the top corner of the stunning Georgian Townhouse, and though the night started as a quiet meal with friends, it ended next door, in House 21, many, many hours later. But, let’s start at the beginning, shall we?
THE HOUSE
Though we’re here to talk about the food, a visit to Home House is never just about what’s on your plate. What’s on the walls, and who’s seated as the tables is just as interesting, and a walk around the club to enjoy the fine artwork and classic interiors of the drawing rooms, the bold and bonkers modernism of House 21 and the sweeping marble staircase at the heart of House 20 is essential, whether it’s your first or your hundredth visit.
FOOD
Tour complete and tucked into a quiet corner of The Restaurant for the evening, the spring menu has plenty of delights in store. Snacks and champagne to start: seasonal steamed langoustine is a must. Then it’s on to the Cornish crab, served with avocado, grapefruit and dill – absolute perfection scooped onto a crusty slice from the bread basket and washed down with the last sip of fizz. While the two vegetarian and one vegan main appeal (particularly the potato, mushroom and Tunworth pie), a seafood theme for a sunny spring evening seems fitting, and the grilled Dover sole doesn’t disappoint. Beautifully presented before being whisked away to be deboned, the tomato cucumber and anchovy relish adds just the right fresh and salty edge to the buttery soft fish. Grab a selection of sides and share, knowing that the chips are all you really want: indeed no visit to Home House is complete without a portion of their crispy, salted fries being ordered and wolfed down. For pudding, should you have space, it feels appropriate to opt for a light spring sorbet. Alas, the ‘salt caramel and hazelnut chocolate finger’ is irresistible, and disappears seconds after it is presented, gone but not forgotten.
DRINK
The wine list at Home House is outstanding, with plenty of gems by the glass or the bottle. A glass of Hattingley Valley fizz starts any visit off well, and the cocktail list at Home House never disappoints. For a refreshing spring mix try the Flora Adora, with the excellent Home House Gin as its base. And whatever drinks are still on the table once the last plate is cleared, scoop them up and carry them next door to House 21, where the night is just getting started…
THE FINAL WORD
Whether it’s a quiet, intimate meal in private surroundings with excellent food in stunning surroundings, or a celebration supper before the blow-out bash with all-night dancing in the club’s wilder rooms, The Restaurant at Home House’s new Group Executive Chef Jeremy Brow ensures the food is as good as the vibes: superlative.
BOOK
Further information and details on membership can be found at homehouse.co.uk