“I normally really hate green beans, but these are absolutely incredible,” I note to my lunch companion, as I dig into the mound of delicious veggies accompanying my pan-roasted hake. She is in similar awe of her mountain of mussels, which are swimming in a pool of the most decadent shallot and wild garlic butter.

We’re seated in Ard Bia at Nimmos, one of Galway’s most beloved eateries, which won the award for best casual …