Today at 12:10
Tasting menus are as popular in our house as iron shackles. Presented by the wrong hands, a tasting menu locks you into a cage hanging from a crane while you’re chained inside wearing a straightjacket before being lowered, screaming, into deep water. There is no sink or swim. It’s just sink.
It gets worse. If you choose the wine pairing you may soon find yourself gasping for a drink, the only relief you were relying on to carry you through to the next course. You won’t dare complain about the tiny mouthful of white you’ve been poured and which was swallowed yonks ago because you don’t want to look like a lush.