I have lived in Central East Austin for nearly two decades and was a regular customer at the post office at 43rd and Speedway. So, I was less than pleased when its lease was not renewed and it closed in 2021, as there’s really no other post office nearby half as convenient. That said, I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t actually thrilled to have a bookstore, an upmarket bodega, and a French bistro occupying the space where I used to buy stamps and mail bills.

A partnership between former Top Chef contestant and Eberly Executive Chef Jo Chan and Tiny Grocer owner Steph Steele, Bureau de Poste inside Tiny Grocer anchors this exciting new development in a neighborhood prime for walkable amenities.

Four of us visited for an alfresco dinner on a very cold January night. We started with the Pommes Dauphine and endive salad. Of the pommes, the waiter explained that “they’re kind of like bougie tater tots.” (Narrator voice: They were not like bougie tater tots.) The four delicate, creamy potato croquettes were topped with fine herbs and a dollop of trout roe and served as a perfectly adequate amuse for the meal. The endive salad was spectacular: light and crisp, the bitter lettuce dancing gracefully with the tart citrus, the creamy comte cheese, and umami hazelnuts.

Our main courses were similarly delightful. My poisson à la plancha entrée, chosen out of a desire to make slightly more virtuous choices, comprised a beautifully seared fillet of cod, its luscious crust napped with a simple, elegant beurre blanc served alongside a small, lightly dressed green salad. I enjoyed every single bite, making sure to enjoy it slowly because it was a fairly modest portion. My spouse enjoyed his steak frites, a large boneless rib-eye cooked medium rare but with an expert char, served with a bright and kicky au poivre sauce.

My friend ordered the Bureau de Poste moules frites, a house recipe that departs from the classic preparation with a unique sauce made from tomatoes, bell pepper, and fennel; it was smoky and flavorful, complex but not overbearing. Her spouse ordered the duck leg cassoulet, which must have been delicious because he didn’t share a single bite with any of us. (We all doubt his assertion that he felt bad about not sharing.)

Really, the only unsuccessful dish we had that first night was the caramel dark chocolate mousse, which arrived garnished with a hazelnut crumble and chantilly cream. It was a very pretty dish, but the texture was off. It was very thick and dense, almost like a chilled chocolate ganache. We wondered whether they’d forgotten to fold in the whipped cream when assembling the dessert. On the other hand, the crème brûlée was very nice, with a crisp, caramelized top we all jockeyed to crack with the back of a spoon. Split four ways, it was a delightful end to a deeply satisfying meal.

Most of our party opted for wine with our dinner; I started out with a glass of the Boxt red blend because I was curious about this Austin-based, woman-owned luxury wine brand. I quickly determined that it was not to my tastes, and so requested a glass of what my companions were having, the Presqu’ile pinot noir from Santa Barbara, California. It was much more to my liking, a muscular balance of earth and spice. Was it the right wine to pair with cod? Of course not, but I couldn’t fathom drinking a chilled wine while dining outside in 30 degrees.

I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t actually thrilled to have a bookstore, a bougie bodega, and a French bistro occupying the space where I used to buy stamps and mail bills.

My family and I returned for Sunday brunch a few weeks later and had a similarly pleasant time. My picky teen ordered a buttery, caramelized kouign-amann pastry sourced from Swedish Hill, along with a side of bacon – her two favorite food groups. She tried the frozen Shirley Temple, which was delicious but very heavy on the lime. My spouse ordered the eggs Benedict, which is topped with perfectly poached eggs and Bayonne ham, and enjoyed it very much. (This is notable because he famously detests ham.) I opted for the classic moules frites, a generous mound (more than two dozen) of bivalves swimming in a light, fragrant broth, served with a small side of fries and a few slices of baguette. The disproportionately small portion of frites/bread compared to the sharing-size portion of mussels was a little disappointing, but the flavors – garlic, butter, white wine – were spot on.

The highlight of the brunch for me, though, was the Cantratto spritz. The Italian aperitif, which is basically made for spritzing, is herbal and citrusy with a pop of licorice. I’ve been an Aperol spritz girlie for a few years now, but I think I have a new summer drink.

I can definitely see myself enjoying many more of these spritzes with my girlfriends on Bureau de Poste’s lovely patio. Granted, our first introduction to it wasn’t the best, because when making my (anonymous) reservation, the only seating options available had been outside. The host reassured us that the patio was heated, but it is really a patio with heaters and no wind breaks. The four of us were supplied with two high-quality serape blankets, but we were still pretty uncomfortable. That said, this is going to be the perfect spot come high patio weather, so make your reservations now.

In a gesture to the building’s long history as a neighborhood post office, each table has a little flag on a rope that you can raise to summon a server, which is precious by half. If I’m raising a flag at a table in a restaurant, I’m going to expect a refill of fresh sopapillas to appear forthwith. And anyway, a well-trained professional server isn’t going to need those kinds of cutesy visual cues to provide spectacular service.

Chan has trained her front-of-house staff well, generally speaking. On our first visit, our waiter was a bit condescending and prone to mansplaining. At this price point and in this neighborhood, waitstaff would do well to assume prior knowledge on their diners’ part. Once he realized we hadn’t just arrived from Hicksville, he relaxed and was less pedantic. Our server at brunch was much more laid-back and confident, friendly and attentive without being overbearing, and definitely made me want to come back so we could hang out some more.

So, despite the fact that I have to go out of my way to mail a package or buy a stamp these days, I’m beyond pleased that Bureau de Poste occupies the former post office space. Chan and Steele have devised a winning combination with their partnership, offering an intimate and convivial space to dine and shop.