Located in a generic strip mall off Cleveland Avenue, the glass doors of the modestly-set Yemeni Restaurant open up to a world of Middle Eastern cuisine and hospitality. Wait, it’s not just Middle Eastern. As the restaurant’s name suggests, the house cuisine is specific to a particular region of the Middle East: Yemen.
If you’ve been following along here, you know that Yemen makes some distinct contributions to the culinary world. Earlier this year, a place called Qamaria introduced us to Yemeni traditions with respect to coffee (fragrant!) and baked goods. In Central Ohio, Yemeni Restaurant actually predates Qamaria’s arrival, but the two projects are connected. Najmeddine Gabbar, chef-owner at Yemeni, was instrumental in bringing the Qamaria organization to town
For those new to Yemeni cuisine, there are familiar elements on the restaurant’s menu. For example, you might recognize a romaine-based house salad or a few biryani rice dishes. But the restaurant distinguishes itself with unique offerings less commonly found in the Columbus dining scene. Among them, a welcome soup to start things off. Some places might bring you chips or bread, Yemeni Restaurant offers a fragrant, full-bodied traditional bowl of lamb broth (maraq) as a way to settle in.
Now, when it comes to more formal choices from the menu, you could start out with something familiar and ubiquitous in even continental eateries: hummus. That wouldn’t actually be a mistake, especially if you opt for an order of Hummus with Lamb ($12.99). The dish seats the traditionally plant-centered offering in a new context, crowning the popular elements of the appetizer with sautéed lamb bits. The tender, flavorful meat plays nicely with an impossibly smooth hummus mix of chickpeas blended with nutty tahini, garlic and just a hint of lemon. For dipping, the combo is served with a poofy tandoori flatbread that adds a likable toasty dimension.
And for those who just need regular hummus, it’s on the appetizer menu as well. There’s also more adventurous options, such as chopped lamb liver.
But if lamb’s your game, all paths lead to the Lamb Haneeth ($21.99) in the entree section. Honestly, you won’t find a nicer treatment of the meat in town. As foreshadowed in the appetizer selection, the kitchen renders the slow-roasted lamb achingly tender. But the dish has more than texture going for it, as the meat is fully infused with aromatic seasoning and served atop a generous supply of house rice with an impressively long grain.
Poultry dishes are featured on the menu as well, and Chicken Fahsa ($12.99) offers guests a bubbling hot bowl of goodness. It is literally bubbling, that’s part of its menu description, and that is how it’s delivered. Once the brew has a moment to cool, spoonfuls deliver an appealing mix of shredded chicken and smashed potatoes in a likable tomatoey broth.
Alternately, the Chicken Agda ($13.99) offers a busier, more elemental stew with chicken pieces, carrots, potatoes, onions and parsley. Though it’s arguably more complex, the mix strikes again from a comforting, homespun angle.
While there’s no bar at Yemini Restaurant, there is a selection of beverage choices that expands beyond sodas into options that range from a Mango Smoothie to a sweet Adeni Tea. The drinkables round out a menu that provides a lovely introduction to the distinctive features of Yemeni cuisine.
It can all be found at 5426 Cleveland Ave. The restaurant is open daily from 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
For more information, visit yemenirestaurant.us.
All photos by Susan Post
