The taco landscape across the Wasatch Front has been quite blessed as of late. We’re seeing more spots that celebrate the humble taco’s versatility with creative fusion menus that are pretty forgiving on the wallet. One such example of this tasty expansion is Kompas Taqueria, a fast-casual taco joint that recently opened in Draper’s Dillman Square commercial area. This particular stretch of land also includes a Gourmandise and an OAK Wood Fire Kitchen, both of which have garnered loyal followings over the years. Based on my initial visits, however, I have a feeling Kompas is well-prepared to hang with those local vets.

So, let’s taco ’bout tacos. The late, great Los Angeles Times/L.A. Weekly food critic Jonathan Gold said, “When it’s done properly, taco should be a verb.” If you are one of those poor people who have yet to experience the catharsis of true, meat-juices-running-down-your-arm taco-ing, then Kompas Taqueria should be your next stop.

It’s a cozy little strip-mall space whose interior focal point is a badass mural depicting Frida Kahlo. The service is warm and friendly throughout the visit; I always like it when someone comes out and checks up on you in a fast-casual environment, and there was plenty of checking in at Kompas. The menu contains a wide variety of taco manifestations, some traditional and some a bit more experimental. All of them will run you about $5, so there’s really no need to hold back when you arrive. If you don’t get at least four tacos during your visit, you may need to rethink your priorities, buster.

My four were the traditional al pastor ($4.99), the summery mahi mahi ($4.99), the smoky chicken tinga ($4.99) and the savory Korean beef ($4.99). The al pastor takes the win for my favorite for a few different reasons. First, this is a spot that understands the impact tacos al pastor have had on taco culture, which is why they don’t fuck around here. The shredded pork is marinated in their own magical blend—a perfect mix of smoky, spicy and sweet. Where you’d traditionally get a few gems of grilled pineapple, Kompas slathers a cool pineapple relish on top of the pork, and it’s a game-changer. As much as I love my al pastor, I always find myself wanting just a teensy bit more of the sweetness from the pineapple. This relish they’re slinging at Kompas does a great job of bringing more of that tropical, citrusy flavor without overwhelming the pork. If you also worship at the al pastor altar, then these tacos need to be in your mouth right now.

Moving on down the list, the mahi mahi tacos came in second for me. Though I’m a sucker for a good fried fish taco, there are some definite upsides to grilling the mahi mahi, and I thought it definitely worked for this taco. It’s got a great balance of flavors between the perfectly cooked fish and the crunchy cabbage slaw, and it’s really everything you want out of a good fish taco. The avocado crema on top helps tie the whole thing together, and I suspect these will start becoming a favorite of mine come summer.

Next up were the chicken tinga tacos, which were a little one-note aside from having some great textural appeal from the grilled corn. The tinga itself had plenty of spice, but it started to overwhelm the other ingredients. After seeing the balance and creativity on display in the first two tacos, this one fell a bit flat for me.

Finally, we come to the Korean beef tacos. I wouldn’t call these bad by any stretch, but I just didn’t like them as much as I liked the other tacos I tried. I was a bit surprised at the placement of these tacos on the list, as they were the ones I was most excited about, but I was struggling to see the Korean influence in these flavors. I was thinking of savory, marinated beef bulgogi, but the beef here—although super tender—didn’t have much of that gochujang-inspired flavor that I was hoping for.

Regardless of where your journey at Kompas Taqueria takes you, it’s hard to beat all this bang for your buck. There’s nothing wrong with street tacos, but it’s hard not to feel a little short-changed when you see your money turn into that small of a taco. At the price point you get at Kompas, I was expecting some lil’ street tacos on their lil’ silver-dollar tortillas, but these are some bulky, overstuffed tacos we’re talking about here—truly something that you can appropriately “taco” per Jonathan Gold’s definition.

At just over a month under its belt, Kompas Taqueria has demonstrated that it’s not here to mess around. When you can come to a fairly diverse taco scene and still show us a few new tricks, it’s time for the taco fans of the Wasatch Front to check out Kompas Taqueria.