Avishar Barua seems to be on an eternally curious culinary adventure. He splashed onto the local dining radar at Service Bar with his Cheesy Brisket Crunch, a dish that was unapologetically inspired by Taco Bell’s immortal Gorditas. From there, Barua’s been on Top Chef; he’s Beat Bobby Flay; he’s designed a Talenti gelato flavor; opened a fast-casual joint called Joya’s, and his upscale restaurant Agni is getting ready to celebrate its first full year of operation. (Oh, and there’s that whole James Beard Award Semifinalist recognition.)

That’s quite a resume. 

Of all his projects, Agni is the sort of place that might be the most expected from a chef of Barua’s status. It serves from a menu that offers a six-course meal with variations for vegetarian, pescetarian and gluten-free diners. As patrons, guests figuratively join Barua on his curious culinary journey as they explore a host of offerings that celebrate his creative sensibilities. Guests can also more literally join the journey at the chef’s table in the kitchen

With prices starting at $125 per person, the pricetag for the trip at Agni requires a formidable buy-in. For the more cautious gambler, there are seats at the bar. And there are more than seats, there is also a tidy menu of individual dishes that are as interesting as they are delicious.

As far as starting points go, Crispy Ribs ($22) are a good one. Enhanced with a flavorful “Not Tso” sauce, the deliciously juicy ribs crackle at the edges and are paired with broccoli and a slice of winter radish that is somehow a garnish well worth eating. 

Then there’s the Island Macaroni Salad ($19). Although the menu mentions something about it being deli-style, the charming mix seems miles away from anything resembling a deli. Instead, the sturdy pasta holds a generous supply of grilled shrimp with spiked punches of pineapple. It’s finished with pops of smoked trout roe and little crispies to add an additional layer of texture. The best bites feature all the elements. 

For mushroom fans, there is a dish for you. An order of Typhoon Mushrooms ($21) delivers a delightful assortment of alternately willowy and plump fungi with supple textures and some with a crunchy-fried breading that’s seasoned all in itself. Teamed with a speckled masala ranch, the collection is thoughtful enough to keep you from mindlessly wolfing it down. The ranch also serves as a reminder of the chef’s preternatural talents for rediscovering the joy in what might otherwise be mundane. 

The modest-sized bar menu offers a dessert option as well, the house version of a deconstructed apple pie using a formula that integrates brie and bone marrow. The drink menu also features some sweets. Case in point, Mango Sticky Rice, a cocktail jointly inspired by a Thai dessert and Hawaiian Shaved ice. Meanwhile, the beer menu ranges from Rodenbach to…Bud Light. 

This points to what’s especially likable about Agni’s approach; there’s an earnestness in its curiosity and creativity. There’s no perceived condescension in its celebration, reinvention and integration of humble foods, and that makes it easy to feel comfortable joining its journey.

It’s open Wednesdays through Sundays at 5 p.m. at 716 S. High St.

For more information, visit dineatagni.com.

All photos by Susan Post