Restaurant review: Exquisite squid at a quirky seaside spot


Shanty Old Lifeboat Shelter, Portrush Tel: 07594 432677

Upon our arrival, we were immediately impressed with the tasteful yet cosy interior.

With tables lined along the wall, it was easy to imagine the benches which perhaps once stood here in the past.

Shades of blue in the soft furnishings, some Christmas decorations and a beautiful tree and a view of the waves (we visited in December), it all contributed to a setting any restaurateur would envy.

We were there for lunch and there was plenty of choice on the menu whether after a light bite or something more substantial.

Busy for a weekday afternoon, the other diners certainly seemed content.

The squid served in Shanty

The decision on our food was difficult but I plumped for the afore-mentioned salt and pepper squid while my companion had baked Cooleeney cheese as a more festive choice. And who can say no to baked cheese, especially at the most wonderful time of the year?

The squid, served with chorizo, rocket and saffron aioli, was so fresh I probably saw it swimming in the ocean on my way into the restaurant.

Meanwhile the cheese was beautifully presented and arrived absolutely piping hot.

Served with acidic red cabbage, it made for a wonderfully balanced starter. It was, however, just a touch too runny which made balancing it on the crostini just a little bit tricky.

Sated with a delicious glass of Le Jade Picpoul De Pinet, we moved on to our mains. There was a bit of a wait but the nice view provided ample distraction and the server, when present, was very friendly.

The dish I chose as my meal was rump steak flatbread. Served with a tomato tapenade, chimichurri and a host of other accompaniments, the rump steak itself was delicious, served pink and certainly a very generous size.

The Cooleeney cheese in Shanty

But I soon discovered that I’d prefer a more robust carbohydrate than flatbread, as it wasn’t long before it was soggy under the weight of meat juices and forcing me to abandon ship.

Meanwhile, the smash burger chosen by my companion was a safe choice, and a good one. It was served with crispy bacon and tomato jam along with Dubliner cheese.

It was served alone and we added chips on the side.

It eventually came to £16 for that meal, not an insignificant price for lunch and we would probably have preferred if the chips were included.

Tempted by an array of carefully thought-out desserts, we were running out of our child-free time and given we had been there a couple of hours, we opted instead to settle our bill.

Shanty is no doubt a great option to have locally, adding to an already fine array of restaurants on the north coast.

We’ll definitely be back after being pleased with a well thought-out menu with an eye for local and Irish produce with a contemporary twist.

The smash burger available in Shanty

The food

  • Diet Coke £2.20
  • Glass of wine £7.25
  • Baked cheese £9.50
  • Squid £10
  • Burger £12
  • Chips £4
  • Rump flatbread £19

Total £63.95

The rating

  • Service 4/5
  • Food 4/5
  • Decor 5/5
  • Vegetarian 5/5

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