The much-anticipated late summer opening of Masa brought Mexican food to the East Market. In joining the Market’s team of food vendors, Masa filled a distinct culinary void in the eating mall. While representation of Cajun, Korean and Mediterranean cuisine is formidable, tacos were a different story.  Sure, there’s a robust taco scene outside the Market in Columbus as a whole, but Masa brings something less often seen at local brick-and-mortar joints: Serious tacos. We’re not talking about shortcuts or after-thoughts with re-purposed ingredients. Masa brings a generational commitment to a culinary art, and for that reason, it’s a worthy destination point. 

Let’s begin with Masa’s name, because it means something in this context. Masa is, beyond the current context of discussion, the corn base from which tortillas are traditionally made. The East Market eatery makes its own tortillas with a recipe that starts with masa. The end result is an outstandingly tender tortilla that tastes of toasted corn and contributes more than a generic functional wrap for the house offerings.  

Case(s) in point, start with the Tacos ($12). The aforementioned tortillas are put to good use in an order of a set of three tacos where guests are at liberty to mix and match fillings. So while it’s certainly an option to choose the something like the tasty shredded chicken in all three tacos, it’s more fun to add to the mix a steak taco and a vegan version with pops of toasted corn and black beans. Accented with onions and cilantro, the core ingredients shine, and diversifying the choices positions a guest to renew appreciation of each one as they switch between.

Those nice tortillas work just fine griddled as well. That would be in the fashion of Quesadillas ($15); an order yield three that top the cheese-and-meat combo with a veritable party: beans, lettuce, sour cream, queso fresco and salsa.  

The menu features Burrito options as well ($12). Switching to a sturdy flour tortilla, the burritos do involve rice, and in some bites it negatively affects the overall balance of the dish that’s otherwise chock full of an adventureland of meat, beans, cheese, sour cream and pico de gallo. The house barbacoa (beef) still shines in the combo, merging seamlessly without stealing the show. 

Something that makes the house offerings a special treat is the attention paid to the house condiment options. Much like the tortillas, the salsas are made from scratch, and guests have an opportunity to pair them thoughtfully with their orders. Consider interesting options such as the pickled habanero onions. It pairs the biting burn of red onions, countered with the fiery burn of habaneros. It’s a hit that’s worth contemplation. There’s also a Salsa Mas Chingon – described and delivered as “smokey” and “sultry.” It’s hard to resist the charms of a freakishly dark salsa that’s the approximate color of midnight. 

In addition, there’s a classic sweets scene to round out the meal with a dessert selection that features a handful of traditional options, including both flan and a tidy tres leches cake. In a marketplace equipped with strong players, Masa fits right into the neighborhood, and that neighborhood can be found at 212 Kelton Ave.

For more information, visit masamexicangrill.com.

All photos by Susan Post