Mediterranean food is easy to find in Columbus. Hummus, tabouli, gyros and kebabs are all frequently found, not only on menus at specialty joints, but also on menus at steakhouses and bars. But even in a context where Mediterranean staples are commonplace, Habibi Grill is doing something distinctly different in Italian Village. 

Which you might guess from the very moment inside the doors. There’s a funky mix of industrial elements (open ceilings), vibrant murals, and artisanal tables that boast curved edges following the grain of the wood from which they’re made. 

You’ll place your order at the counter: Think in terms of a service model that’s fast-casual with nice plates. In building a meal, there’s a big appetizer section that opens with a familiar hummus offering, and then expands into an assortment of less commonly found options.

All of them beckon, but if you do your homework and spend a little time with the menu beforehand, you’ll notice that another section, the Vegetarian Paradise section, has an offering called the Vegetarian Sampler ($26.95), and therein lies and opportunity to eat all the appetizers in one order. 

Okay, perhaps not all the appetizers. But a lot of the appetizers are involved in the Vegetarian Sampler entree, some laid out in a divided platter, some in companion pieces. The end result is a profoundly sharable, dreamy warm-up for any meal. 

We can start with the more standard dips in the sampler, hummus and baba ghanoush. They’re ubiquitous at Mediterranean restaurants because they’re tasty and appealing, and the versions at Habibi certainly meet this standard. The pool of hummus scores points for its traditional take on the smooth chickpea mix, enhanced with tahini, garlic and a hint of lemon. Baba Ghanoush leverages that same trinity: tahini, garlic and lemon. Yet, its pureed charbroiled eggplant base yields a profoundly different dip with a lighter-than-air texture. 

But wait, there’s more. There’s the house fried cauliflower, with carmelized florets basking in a lemony garlic finish. And stuffed grape leaves, each one a tender bundle of greens stuffed with a parsley-infused mix of tomatoey rice. 

But wait, there’s more (yes, once again). The platter also offers Loubie Bzeit, which roughly translates as “green beans in oil,” which sounds not-good. To the contrary, an order yields flat, Italian-style beans stewed in a slurry with garlic and tomatoes. And there’s falafel too! While all these options together might come with a steeper price tag than a single random appetizer, you can’t argue with the value. 

Now we can’t spend an eternity in the appetizers, as there are plenty of other courses on the menu. For entrees, the choices range from traditional favorites (kebob dishes) to some interesting fusions with tacos and pizza. Staying closer to tradition, the Roasted Lamb ($24.95) features a thick wreath of tender, chunky shreds, served with a bed of rice with cucumber yogurt (comparable to tzatziki sauce) on the side. 

The conversation so far has focused on items in a higher price range. There is a robust selection of gyros and wraps that are all priced just north of $10. So, for example, the Beef Shawarma Wrap ($13.95) offers the opportunity for a tidy meal with slices of seasoned meat dressed with tahini and onions and packed inside the house flatbread. It’s good, easy-eating sustenance that requires minimal financial investment. 

And if you don’t mind going a little off-theme, there’s an in-house Tiramisu ($7.99) that provides a tasty ending to a good meal. The sweetness and comforting textures might compel speed-eating in the tradition of gobbling, but you’d miss the changing layers of coffee-infused flavor in the process.

All in, this Lebanese eatery offers a range of experiences and price points in a creative environment. You can find Habibi Grill at 1131 N. Fourth St. It’s open from 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. daily.

For more information, visit habibigrill614.com.

All photos by Walker Evans.