For ‘Chinese’, see ‘Italians’ or ‘Indians’ or ‘Spanish’ or any other nationality…
It doesn’t really stand up to scrutiny either. The Irish eating in a traditional Irish restaurant abroad wouldn’t necessarily be a ringing endorsement of that establishment, would it?
I’m droning on a bit here, I know, but for the record, I spotted no Thais nor any discernibly Asian people at all for that matter on a visit to the wonderful ‘bring-yer-own’ Bo Tree Kitchen a few weeks back.
Inside Bo Tree Kitchen in south Belfast
But my spies tell me none other than the doyen of Belfast cuisine, Michael Deane, was there recently, as was his peer and fellow Michelin star restaurateur Alain Kerloc’h of Ox, as well as the owner of the delightful Grapevine cafe on Pottinger’s Entry.
And that, for me, is a ringing endorsement.
These people know food, they know flavours, they’ve finely-tuned palettes and brains wired to this industry and what works on a plate, so if they deem this modest, slapdash little eatery up a south Belfast side-street as worthy of their time and dosh, then who am I to argue?
It was my first trip to Bo Tree, and the quality-to-value ratio might just be the best I’ve come across in Belfast yet.
For two starters, two mains and a side, each and every one exquisite, the bill came in at well under £50.
Result! And it teed us up nicely to get robbed blind in the neighbouring bars around the University Street and Botanic areas.
But before I get onto the food, take a minute to gaze longingly at the pictures.
The papaya salad at Bo Tree Kitchen
If indeed you eat with your eyes, then those bright, vibrant colours; those shiny, silky sauces, that’s food porn right there.
It would be a stretch to claim the fare is of the very highest order. It’s not, but it’s not simply cheap and cheerful either.
What it is, is authentic Thai food — as far as I can tell anyway, having never set foot in that land of lady boys, tuk tuks and temples.
It’s certainly how I imagine it anyway… as fresh and fragrant as a fruit market in summertime.
Spring rolls with sweet chilli sauce
There’s a likeability about the place too, which isn’t always the case when you’re getting your eye wiped in the capital’s more narcissistic restaurants.
Inside is honest and unassuming, the staff pleasant (if a little harassed), and everything so competitively priced.
Maybe too competitive if I’m honest — I’m no expert on hospitality but the margins here must be fine, which makes me root for their continued success even more.
The papaya salad came highly recommended from a friend, and alongside the spring rolls, got the ball rolling nicely; the delicate fruit of the former given some oomph by the lime juice and chillis, the latter crispy and piquant.
Usually I find starters superior to mains, but here, the roles were reversed, with the beef massaman and the special tamarind crispy duck both outstanding.
The massaman curry was warm and comforting, the heat of the spices cooled by the coconut. Half-submerged were some crinkled potatoes and cashews.
The massaman beef curry with star anise, tamarind, potatoes and peanuts
The special, meanwhile, boasted a wonderful sticky sauce, almost caramel-like, but thinner, spicier. Neither were overly adventurous, and none the worse for it.
The successor to the original and much-missed Bo Tree on University Street, the name refers to the bodhi, a sacred tree in the Buddhist religion.
I’m not the God-fearing type, but I’m a convert to this place.
Bo Tree Kitchen
65-67 University Avenue,
Belfast, Tel: 028 90507544
The food
Som Tam (papaya) salad £8.95
Popia Thod (spring rolls) £6.35
Gaeng Massaman £11.95
Tamarind crispy duck £12.95
Noodles and rice £2.95
Corkage £2.80
Total £45.95
The rating
Service 4/5
Food 4/5
Decor 3/5
Vegetarian 4/5