New York restaurant Le Crocodile in Williamsburg embodies the American’s adoration of French culture. A smart but cool all-day brasserie located in The Whythe Hotel, here can be found a restaurant with a string of rave reviews under its belt from chef duo Jake Leiber and Aidan O’Neal.
During a long weekend trip from London we navigate across the bridge from Manhattan to check out this trendy neighbourhood of the Big Apple, a place where the ‘real locals’ reside. Away from the bright lights of the big city, it’s refreshing to while away the afternoon alongside this nonchalant Williamsburg crowd, who evidently have welcomed Le Crocodile into their set since the restaurant first opened in 2019.
The menu is nothing short of exceptional, from my ‘extra’ dry martini served with a fat olive and pink pickled onion, to a perfect steak tartare – dare I say it, that is better than many I’ve eaten on French soil. From fruits de mer we share some brilliant oysters sourced locally (and thankfully not flown across the pond) which are a must for oyster inclined diners. Other seafood selections include crab with avocado and yuzu or scallops with rhubarb and hearts of palm. Our brilliant waitress knows her menu inside out and gives us a comprehensive run through of signature ‘must haves’, which seem to make up much of the menu.
With too many for us to collectively consume during one sitting, some of top the plates include a smooth mushroom pâté with black truffle, Le Crocodile’s famous roast chicken with herb jus and crispy frites, plus the bistro steak frites with maître d’hôtel butter.
We order a selection of dishes from across the menu with a line-up of choices that are as delicious as the next. A large, steaming bowl of classic French moules mariniere, swimming in the iconic sauce, is plated up alongside the restaurant’s signature ‘Le Croc’ club sandwich: generously packed with salty bacon, crispy lettuce and fresh tomatoes and chicken breast, notably with a cucumber sized gherkin strewn across the top.
The dessert menu is a collection of dishes that individually all stand out, including a signature that is highlighted by our waitress: the sticky banana date pudding. This sits alongside other sweet finishing touches such as the maple crème brûlée with its American twist, and a ‘perfect’ classic chocolate mousse ready to devour. Drizzled beneath molten chocolate, we order the profiteroles, stuffed full of vanilla ice cream, another highlight of our meal here at Le Crocodile, despite not having a sweet tooth.
Le Crocodile’s wine list would make any Frenchmen proud. GrandCru labels flock the champagne list and are suitably available to pop should the occasion suffice. Meanwhile generous white and red wine bins cast from the Loire, Bourgogne and south of France along with Italian, Spanish, Eastern European and orange specialities for good measure. These can be paired with classic cocktails shaken to your taste with fine spirits including a strong collection of whiskies brought in from near and far, notably local American blends, Japanese and Irish.
Brooklyn’s ‘original boutique’ property, The Wythe on Williamsburg’s waterfront is a 69-room hotel with Le Crocodile on the ground floor which is at the heart of its culinary offering. Since opening in 2012 it has been a key pillar in the gentrification of the now uber-cool neighbourhood with a collection of art which honours the creative soul of the community. This extends to the hotel’s artist residency which provides a space to nurture local talent within the historic building.
Meanwhile, should you want to book a stay at The Whythe, the hotel’s rooms feature original timber ceilings with oversized windows with many that frame floor-to-ceiling views of the Manhattan skyline and East River. Atop the original five-story building has been built three stories of modern glass which is a modern interpretation of the building’s signature factory windows, honouring days gone by.
Factbox
Address: Wythe Hotel 80 Wythe Ave Brooklyn NY
Phone: +1 718 460 8004
Website: lecrocodile.com