It may be off the beaten track but revamped Dungiven restaurant is a rewarding journey
I live just under an hour from Dungiven, and I went along to the restaurant for its wine pairing dinner and felt it was well worth the drive.
Following a three-month closure last summer, the refurbished restaurant reopened with married couple JP Doherty and former Redcastle Hotel chef Kevin Brolly at the helm.
My first impression of the restaurant was it had a modern, edgy vibe.
A refurbished Silky’s has reopened under JP Doherty and Kevin Brolly
I loved the eclectic décor touches of an overhead Prosecco glass light fitting, and a suspended industrial pipe light with exposed bulbs.
I am unable to define the colour scheme, nonetheless it worked. The seats alone were a pick and mix of mustard, teal, grey, navy, plum and peach shades. A patterned mosaic-style tiled floor visually sectioned off the bar area from the dining space which had a wooden floor.
Table dividers added an interesting element to the room and it’s something I have not seen done in this way previously. Basically, three brick walls were built out at an angle along one side of the restaurant to create cosy nooks.
I think we’ve all been out for dinner and seated so closely to fellow diners that you can hear their conversation and vice versa, and so this semi-private dining area is a thoughtful touch.
Braised daube of beef with celeriac puree, smoked garlic mash and puy lentil jus
I’d come to Silky’s for a seven-course paired meal hosted by wine expert Andrew Schnell. Tickets cost £55. Between courses Andrew talked through the wine flavours and origins, so I learned a little, in between chats with my dining partner.
Highlights of the fine dining menu were the pea and mint soup with ham hock, Shortcross gin and elderflower water ice, and the warm chocolate fondant tart with caramelised oats and raspberry sorbet.
A change from what I’d usually opt for, the piping-hot pea soup was first class. Smooth and creamy, a smoky, salty ball of ham added interest to the earthy dish.
The ice-cold Shortcross palette cleanser certainly had a kick to it, with a slightly sweeter side coming from the elderflower.
For mains, there was a choice of beef or chicken. I opted for the raised daube of beef with celeriac puree, smoked garlic mash and puy lentil jus. The beef was cooked to perfection, and was nicely complemented by the peppery gravy-like sauce and creamed potatoes.
Shortcross gin and elderflower water ice
Oozing melted chocolate, the dessert was divine. It was served with equally-as-delicious raspberry sorbet, crunchy oats that had the texture of granola, and a generous dollop of raspberry sauce. Yum.
Overall I was extremely impressed by the quality of food and wine on offer, the artful presentation of dishes, and the attentive, friendly service.
I think you’d pay a lot more than £55 in Belfast for a paired meal of this calibre.
The proprietors are currently in the process of organising a second wine pairing dinner, details of which will be shared on their Facebook page.
In the meantime, diners can order from the al la carte menu, which features a variety of interesting meat-based, vegetarian and fish dishes, such as a shredded duck confit with Chinese pancakes, pickled cucumber and hoi sin starter; or the goat’s cheese boile with pickled beets, truffle and shallot dressing, and candied walnuts.
Appetisers are priced from £6 and mains start from £14.95.
Restaurant Thirty Seven @ Silky’s
The food
Wine pairing dinner £55
Total £55