Credit where credit’s due though, she can make some truly amazing pasta.

Her linguine with French green beans and parsley pesto is usually rolled out when she’s done something to upset me – so as you can imagine that’s served quite a bit in the Frazer household.

A recent trip to Portrush, however, has revealed a pasta dish that blows the linguine out of the water and is the best I’ve had in the last 12 months.

The pulled brisket and chorizo pappardelle at The Quays on Eglington Street was simply sublime.

A beautiful smoked paprika cream was the starting point for a depth of flavour not often seen on pub grub menus.

But the roasted peppers, onions and sun-dried tomatoes, pesto crumb and parmesan took it to an even higher level while the accompanying garlic ciabatta was the cherry on top.

As a venue The Quays is part pub, part restaurant, part covered outdoor atrium.

The space works well but is helped in no small measure by a wonderful team of friendly, young waiting staff.

We booked a table on a Saturday night for four and were seated at the back, just past the busy bar.

We just ordered one starter to share, which itself was a real eye-opener.

In fact the crispy potato bread fries with burnt onion mayo blew our minds. It certainly isn’t the healthiest of dishes but if I ate these every day for the rest of my life I’d certainly die happy.

A pan-fried fillet of smoked haddock main was equally impressive. The strong and salty flavour of the fish pairing particularly well with a superb bacon and spring onion mash, lemon cream and crispy leaks.

The only slight disappointment was my wife’s charcoal-grilled 10oz sirloin.

There was no doubting that it started life as a wonderfully tasty cut of meat but unfortunately it was cooked far beyond the ‘medium’ that was requested.

It was still tasty and a good peppered sauce helped, but it was definitely left on the grill for a minute or two too long.

I really enjoyed my visit to The Quays but my son has officially given it the title of “ best restaurant ever”.

He ordered a plate of popcorn chicken and tater tots but when we asked the waitress what veg was available her response was: “We don’t do vegetables.” Never has an eight-year-old child been so happy.

The restaurant has a decent vegetarian and vegan menu so it seems odd that at least a bowl of peas or carrots can’t be added to the list of sides which revolve around fries, onion rings or salads.

We finished off our visit with one desert – a delicious Malteser cheesecake with ice cream which was packed full of chocolate crunch and was wonderfully moreish.

We would definitely visit again, not least because of that amazing pasta – and my son’s mission in life to avoid eating vegetables.

The food Potato bread fries £5.95 Smoked haddock £17.95 Papardelle pasta £15.95 Sirloin £25.95 Kid’s meal £4.95 Garlic fries £3.95 Cheesecake £5.50 Drinks £6 TOTAL £86.20

THE RATING Service **** Food **** Decor **** Vegetarian ****