Pat and Gracie’s is a Clintonville legend. That’s true of the original Graceland eatery, one of the first local stops to turn tater tots into something artisanal. That’s also true of the historical Pat and Gracie themselves, for whom the restaurant is named. The legends surrounding Pat (the magnate) and Gracie (a madam) make a compelling love story that grounds the restaurant’s first location built on what was evidently once their horse farm.
If you pay attention to the love story, though, you’ll notice that Pat and Gracie, the couple, also had Downtown Columbus connections. He liked to go on Downtown strolls in ostentatious plaid suits. Legend has it that those sorts of stylish statements led to their first meeting.
So it was only a matter of time before the restaurant named for the couple laid claim to Downtown Columbus territory too. It’s the perfect parallel. The restaurant’s history gets a little twisted, as the first Downtown Pat and Gracies is now a Matt and Tony’s. That said, however it happened, the power couple is back amongst the tallish buildings, settling in this year on South High.
The Downtown Pat and Gracie’s is very red. Add in some contrasting black elements and the result is dramatic, but you might expect that. Service is warm, you might expect that too.
Eating-wise, let’s start at the beginning with the Tots ($9.99). They are made from in-house grated potatoes, teamed with just a touch of onion and formed into stubbly logs that are then fried. On their own, the savory seasoned potato elements shine in a way that frozen tots can’t capture. Teamed with the garlic aioli, it’s the kind of good that makes your eyes roll up into your head.
There are other creative choices on the starter menu. Scratch-made chicken tenders and mozzarella sticks are also options. There is also Smoked Bacon Onion Dip ($13.99). It’s a mix of soft-cooked onions, bacon, cream cheese, garlic and parm that’s baked so it caramelizes a little, then it’s topped with curiously sweet onion jam. The best strategy is to combine both elements in every mouthful, as the sweet hits first, dissolving into the sublime richness of the cheese combo.
If you’re more of a large salad person, you’re in luck: At Pat and Gracie’s, salads are served out of stainless steel mixing bowls, for real the ultimate sense of excess salad enjoyment. The Fried Chicken Cobb Salad ($13.79) teams the aforementioned house-breaded chicken tenders with a host of greens, tomatoes, bacon, cucumbers, egg and onion. Even in this busy context, the quality of the chicken shines through. House breading is more crackly than re-warmed stuff; the meat more tender. Diners choose their own dressing and while Ranch is available, the house vinaigrette really does allow the individual flavors to come through.
From there…a sandwich? Chicken or fried bologna sandwiches are both on the menu, but the house burger selection is renown. While diners will reliably find a classic Bacon Cheese Burger on the menu, there’s also something on the lines of the Chimi Burger ($15.49). If you guessed that its name comes from chimichurri sauce, you’d be right. It’s a fun addition to a busy mix that features two patties, cheese, avocado and bacon. While we can’t say that the chimichurri does a lot of work, we can say that the combo is pretty tasty, given the holy trinity of cheese, avocado and bacon. The house hand-cut fries make a worthy pairing.
In addition to the primary eats, Pat and Gracie’s hosts a robust bar menu, as well as a special weekend brunch menu that features breakfast items. Pat and Gracie’s is hitting hospitality from every angle, and now they’re doing it in two locations once again. The Downtown branch can be found at 121 S. High St.
For more information, visit patandgracies.com.
All photos by Susan Post