The first thing I learned in culinary school was to get ready. Mis en place, French for “everything in its place,” is kitchen lingo for being prepared. Success at the stove first means reading the recipe thoroughly while preheating your ovens, gathering your knives and equipment, and then washing, peeling, chopping and measuring all the required ingredients before you ever begin to cook.  

‘Plas Food & Drink, a relative newcomer in the space formerly occupied by the Table in the Short North, is named for this ethos. Mis en place is its self-proclaimed mantra, and co-owners Jackie Williams, Eric Bearfield and executive chef Jamie George want you to know they are ready for your visit. The name is their commitment.   

In a town that launched several fast-food chains, the from-scratch “modern rustic” cooking at ‘Plas is not new but a welcome addition to Columbus (and landed ‘Plas on this magazine’s Best New Restaurants list in early 2022). Chef George, former executive chef at Z Cucina, can be seen each night in the restaurant’s open kitchen, delivering menus that feature ingredients that easily could have been store-bought. Instead, his big, farm-to-table menu relies on peak-season ingredients and includes all kinds of housemade items—from breads, cheeses and charcuterie to fresh pasta, smoked meats and even marshmallows.   

The ‘Plas dining room is a hidden urban gem, tucked just off North High Street in a former industrial building. A mural of the Short North’s iconic arches covers the back wall and reminds you of the nearby streetscape, but an impressive bar and exposed brick walls filled with modern art insulate you from the hectic world outside.   

During one of our visits seated at the bar, co-owner Jackie Williams conveyed enthusiasm and guided us through selections without pushing. ’Plas’ wine list is both accessible, with many bottles under $40, and unusual, featuring wines from surprising regions or unique grapes. I appreciated learning from her as I decided between two wines unknown to me: a glass of the tempranillo blanco (a genetic anomaly for the typically red grape of Spanish Rioja blends) and a Sicilian grillo (both $9).  

‘Plas also features an exciting menu of craft cocktails ($14 each). The Fireside was as warming and comforting as the name suggests, evoking a classic Manhattan by combining bourbon and vermouth with house-smoked cherries. On the spirit-free menu, ‘Plas offers a strong selection of options ($7 each) that incorporate infusions of herbs and cold-pressed juices.   

Every guest at ‘Plas is welcomed with a fresh, complimentary bread board. Ours included a quirky combination of herbed focaccia, a guajillo chile butter and giardiniera—an Italian condiment of pickled vegetables.   

The bread alone could serve as a sufficient appetizer, but ‘Plas offers eight other starters ranging from $14 to $26, with many items, like the chef’s charcuterie board ($26) and the furikake-cured salmon lox ($19), large enough to be an entrée. The salmon was well-executed—tender and flavorful—especially when dipped in the bourbon-barrel soy sauce, but the accompanying squid ink noodle salad was overdressed. We also ordered the corn milk panna cotta ($15) served with Parmigiano zeppole (Italian-style savory doughnuts) and a peppery-corn salsa. The inviting aroma of hot cheese fritters drew a neighboring table to almost snatch them off our plate, but we unfortunately did not fully enjoy them as they arrived still raw and doughy in the center. 

While the menu at ‘Plas changes regularly, a hearty pasta and sauce dish, called Everyday Gravy ($31), remains on the menu year-round. Its full name, Grandma’s Sunday Sauce, evokes traditional Italian comfort food rich with the flavors of spicy sausage and deep, caramelized tomatoes. For what was claimed to be the restaurant’s signature dish, our meatballs were dry to the point of crumbling and surprisingly weak in flavor.  

More disappointing was the cioppino ($42)—an otherwise luxurious, seafood stew—that was truly inedible. It’s impossibly thick, sweet tomato sauce smothered the fish and erased any of their subtle, briny flavors. I was flummoxed how the shrimp, clams and mussels could be overcooked and rubbery while the lobster gnudi (gnocchilike dumplings) were still pasty and raw.   

Despite these bad bites, I liked a lot of what ‘Plas has to offer, from the service and atmosphere to the bar program and the cooks’ plucky, can-do spirit in the kitchen. Unfortunately, this exuberance translates into dishes that can best be described as too much: I consistently thought that each dish needed an editor, with too many ingredients often overwhelming the plate; and some items being undercooked or overdone. And with most entrées north of $30, that makes ‘Plas an expensive gamble. Here’s hoping the owners’ commitment to the details will soon translate to what’s on the plate. 

SHORTHAND

’Plas Food & Drink

21 E. Fifth Ave., Ste. 10, Short North, 614-725-5700 

Hours: Tues.-Fri. 4 p.m. to close; Sat. 5 p.m. to close 

Not to Miss: If the weather is warm, grab a seat on the ’Plas patio, a spirited and colorful oasis tucked away on the west side of the building for happy hour from 4-6 p.m. during the weekdays to enjoy deals on select small plates and half off beer, wine and cocktails.