I didn’t need much of an excuse to head to West Marin. Spring had just sprung into action with orange poppies greeting me everywhere and fruit trees blossoming. As we headed over Mt. Tamalpais on Panoramic Highway, we crested at Pantoll Campground and wound our way down Highway 1. We saw a few wild irises along the side of the road making their annual appearance.  With all the rain we’ve had, I know a trail just off the road that would be certain to have some choice wild mushrooms but I leave the foraging of those to the experts.

We were headed to Point Reyes Station to check out the Station House Cafe. First opened in 1964 on the corner of Main and Third Street, the restaurant was moved down the street in 1989. A year later, Sheryl Cahill began working at the restaurant and took over as owner in 2005. Due to increased rent and the intrusion of COVID, things had to change. Led by Cahill’s strong leadership, and with the generous support of staff, friends and the community, the Station House Cafe is back home at its original 1964 site — completely remodeled and slightly expanded.

Divided into three dining areas with the bar at the far end of the area where you enter, the restaurant has a modern vibe with a color palette of various tones of slate with some white walls, charcoal booths, black barrel-backed chairs and black epoxy floors. Large windows on both sides of the building brighten the space. Large framed photos of the original staff, modern art and abstract pieces of décor decorate the walls. These are attractive and comfortable dining rooms.

It was a Sunday at brunch time and the Station House Cafe was buzzing. My friend ordered the Beet Shrub ($8), one of the nonalcoholic cocktails. The deep reddish-purple drink was served on ice in a rocks glass garnished with a sprig of rosemary. The beet flavor wasn’t clouded by too much sweetness — so refreshing. I ordered the Station House Bloody Mary ($12). If you want a spicier version, order the Blazin’ Bloody Mary ($13). On the menu, there’s a category of specialty cocktails at $15 and classic cocktails at $14. Beer, both draft and bottle, run from $5 to $11. There’s also a reasonably priced and interesting wine list with an average cost of around $50 a bottle and a few wines available by the glass in the $11 range.

The brunch menu offered six starters. We chose the “Croquettes” ($12). Two plump little logs were filled with mac and cheese. They were golden, crispy and, even with all that filling, not heavy — just heavenly. On the side was a small bowl of shaved and whipped Parmesan. It was tasty but the croquettes didn’t really need it.

We had to taste the Popovers (two for $3), a childhood favorite of both my dining companion and myself. They came with jam and a sea salt-honey butter. The café is known for them so I was surprised when they were overcooked and tough. Even if we had eaten them as soon as they were served, I don’t know if it would have made a difference. They just needed less time in the oven. However, it was a busy day for the kitchen.

Throughout the menus, the bounty of West Marin and California are featured without naming where each item originates, which gets a bit overwhelming on some menus. This restaurant has been a trusted part of this tight community for 60 years. They deliver what they preach.

The Seared Corn and Braised Greens ($18) was chosen by my friend, who added a Poached Egg ($2). A warm square of polenta was topped with some seared kernels of corn with small strips of roasted poblano chilis gently doused with a mild chili-based sauce. A bottle of Tabasco was served on the side if you want to add a little more heat. A mound of braised chard topped with a perfectly poached egg filled the other side of the oval plate. My neighbor recently gave me some chard from his garden and this chard tasted just as fresh as his straight-from-the-garden bunch. This was a dish unlike so many brunch items. It was delicious, and it wouldn’t put you to sleep for the afternoon.

My choice of Corned Beef Hash ($18) featured small cubes of corned beef cooked with chunks of potatoes, red bell peppers and red onion, tossed with some parsley and topped with two poached eggs. The corned beef flavor was rather mild but the ample portion was filling and satisfying. A small mixed green salad was served on the same plate.

Desserts feature Chocolate Pudding ($8), Brioche Bread Pudding ($8), Straus Organic Ice Cream ($8), Blood Orange Sorbet ($7) and Lemon Pot de Crème ($7). We chose the last two. All desserts are house-made except, of course, the Straus ice cream.

Shaved pineapple slices lined the bottom of the bowl with a dollop of the orange sorbet on top. Mint and lemon oil lightly flavored the pineapple, and the sorbet was intensely orange flavored. It was all delicious.

These citrus-based desserts were a perfect ending to our brunch. The Lemon Pot de Crème was creamy with pointed lemon flavors.

As brunch menus run, this one envisions there’s life after brunch. Eat here and you could still take a hike or drive back to Stinson to surf or swim. The balanced menu fits the location very well.

Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at [email protected].

Station House Cafe

Address: 11285 Highway 1, Point Reyes Station

Phone: 415-663-1515

Website: Stationhousecafe.com

Cuisine: California fresh

Noise level: Moderate

Seating: Inside, tables, chairs and booths

Liquor selection: Full bar

Gluten-free selections: Yes

Vegetarian selections: Yes

Vegan selections: Yes

Dog friendly: No

Parking: Street

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fridays; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturdays; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays; closed Wednesdays

Prices: $5 to $42

Reservations: Call or Resy

Summary: West Marin family-style restaurant offering some of the bounty of California in a setting with a vacation feel.