It’s no secret that the restaurant landscape has irrevocably changed since the early days of the pandemic, and it’s been interesting to see how those changes have informed restaurants today. For example, reinterpreting sushi into something that is more takeout-friendly like the team at Keyaki Sushi in Murray. I don’t mean that to sound like it’s inferior in some way. Instead, they’ve taken their background in Latin cooking and used that to turn their sushi rolls into something memorable, whether you knock them back in their cozy dining space or pack them up to eat at home.

Traditional and non-traditional sushi rolls are definitely the lure that brings one to Keyaki, but once you get there, you realize there is much more than meets the eye. In addition to their wide array of sushi dishes, diners can snag fruity mocktails ($4-$5) and crispy churros drizzled with chocolate ($5); they’ll even bake custom cakes for special occasions. There are plenty of menu options to explore at Keyaki, but like I said earlier, if you’re here, you’re here for sushi.

I’ll always be a fan of restaurants that can take a culinary concept and turn it on its ear a bit, and Keyaki has a few interesting tricks up its sleeve. For starters, they’ve got sushi pizza ($15.99) on the menu, and it’s awesome. If you’re wondering how sushi pizza even works, allow me to elaborate. The “crust” is a patty of sushi rice that gets a nice crispy exterior, a lot like the crunchy rice at the base of a good Korean bibimbap. On top of the crust, you get a scoop of crab salad—spicy or not—and then a choice of salmon or tuna. From there, you get some sliced avocado, sesame seeds, spicy mayo and either crumbled Takis or hot Cheetos.

From a culinary fusion perspective, the sushi pizza at Keyaki is a glorious union of several delicious cultural influences. It makes you remember the importance of rice and avocado to both Latin and Japanese cuisines, while appreciating the Italian innovators who created pizza. The crumbled Takis or Cheetos on top are clever nods to traditional Latin street food like the Sonoran hot dog or elotes. Sushi pizza is a harmonious dish that represents the sheer foodie joy that materializes when international favorites come together. It’s a bit hard to eat with chopsticks, but you have my permission to use your fingers on this one.

Taking another page from the fusion cookbook, Keyaki also offers sushi nachos ($16.99) that have been a sleeper gastropub hit for the past few years. The sushi nachos at Keyaki use fried wonton wrappers as the chips and do not skimp on toppings—mango, tuna, avocado, green onion and cilantro are all here for the party. It also gets hit with some spicy mayo, signature K sauce and some sweet chili sauce for good measure. A plate of sushi nachos is definitely enough to share; serving size is never an issue here. I did think the sushi nachos were a tad on the sweet side with the mango and sweet chili sauce, but all in all this is a tasty take on the dish.

As far as sushi rolls are concerned, Keyaki has had a lot of fun with their menu. The standout for me was the Hot Cheeto ($14.99), a spicy crab and shrimp number coated in hot Cheeto dust. There’s something downright rebellious about taking sushi, a dish with no shortage of snobbery attached, and giving it the same treatment as a Doritos Locos Taco from Taco Bell; I positively swoon for that type of rebellion. The punk-rock nature of this sushi roll would fall flat if the thing wasn’t absolutely delicious—it totally is—which makes it all the more provocative. You’ve got the thinly sliced jalapeño pepper topped with a dab of sriracha, spicy crab salad, fried shrimp and that crispy, slightly acidic coating of hot Cheetos. It’s a monolith of spicy flavor.

Other standout rolls are the fried chicken-stuffed Tanuki ($14.99) and the Idaho ($16.99), which comes topped with curly fried potatoes. In general, sushi does have a tendency to lack textural variety, but the addition of these comfort food tidbits helps solve that problem. Not only are you getting some interesting flavor combinations, but you can’t underestimate the power of a well-placed crunch in the middle of your sushi roll.

If you visit Keyaki and aren’t quite sure what to get, their combo meals are all great options. I think the Munchies Box ($30) is a great place to start, as it comes with a sushi pizza, gyoza, edamame and some chocolatey churros. If you haven’t had churros after eating sushi, you’re missing out. Let’s also not overlook their vegan menu that includes vegan sushi pizza and a wide range of creative vegan sushi rolls. The Monkey ($12.99), for example, comes topped with fried plantains, which is brilliant.

Keyaki boasts a takeout-friendly sushi menu that incorporates nods to comfort food from around the world, and it does so with a healthy dose of confidence. Sushi snobs may scoff at the mere mention of Cheeto dust, but those of us on the level know that the clever use of Cheeto dust is the sign of genius at work.