As fond as I am of our landlocked desert state and its surrounding mountain ranges, I feel like I’m missing out on a boozy, surrealistic tiki-bar experience. You know, a place with an alligator-shaped bar serving drinks in unwieldy wooden mugs made to look like the moai on Easter Island.

While I’ll keep looking—I’m sure we’ve got something akin to this just waiting to spring on me—I did come very close to basking in this vibe at Casa Salvaje, a bonkers Colombian joint in Murray. Casa Salvaje roughly translates to Wild House, and I found its interior charming beyond words. Walls are covered in artificial, jungle-green foliage, faux flowers hang from the ceiling and there is no shortage of neon lights. They’ve got a gold-tiled wall for birthday photos–clever use of social media staging–and at the moment, the place is dolled up with spooky Halloween decor. Just FYI, there is a demonic dog puppet hiding in the doghouse in the entryway, and it will jump out at you, causing you to drop your phone, about two minutes after you walk in. I found this out the hard way.

The wild house vibe also translates to the menu; their caveman mascot is a nod to the restaurant’s penchant for grilled meat, and lots of it. Casa Salvaje is a Colombian restaurant, and Colombia has a heritage for grilling and barbecue that has spanned for decades.

For starters, you’ve got your traditional roster of arepas de chocolo ($5.99), patacon con hogao ($5.99) and empanadas de carne ($3.49). They’re all bangers and you’d be quite happy with any or all of these bad boys starting you off. The arepas are similar to the Venezuelan cachapa—sweet corn flour rolled into a grilled pancake and then topped with cheese—and the crispy empanadas showcase the restaurant’s ability to season a protein, even if it’s getting stuffed into an empanada.

You can work your way up to the steak menu with a few tasty non-steak items that also demonstrate Casa Salvaje’s grilling aptitude. The Picada Salvaje ($12.99) is an excellent sampler that comes with pork ribs, crispy pork chicharron, roasted potatoes, plantains, beans and tortillas. With all that goodness in a dish, it’s hard to decide where to start. If tortillas are involved, I will always try to make my own little taco by scooping as much of everything on the plate into the tortilla while trying to hold it all together for each mouthful. You can’t really go wrong there, but it’s worth checking out the pork ribs and chicharron individually. I may have enjoyed the ribs slightly more—they’re a textbook sample of smoky barbecue wizardry—but it’s a tasty plate that captures Colombian food culture on one plate.

The grill game at Casa Salvaje is a whole spectrum of meaty wonderment. Their burgers range from the demure Sencilla ($10.99) with its simple assembly of a juicy beef patty, crispy bacon and some melty cheese, to the monstrous Colombiana ($17.99). The latter is truly a feat of burger logistics, as it manages to contain a beef patty, barbecued pork, chicharron, chorizo, bacon and guacamole, and that’s before a velvety deluge of melted cheese gets dumped on top of the whole thing. This is a Mount Everest situation for burger fans, and should ideally be shared by at least two people.

I’ve always been a hot dog guy, and the Choriperro ($15.99) is the hot dog equivalent of the Colombiana. It’s a grilled chorizo topped with a tender chopped brisket and draped in melty cheese before getting hit with ketchup and mayo. This is a chorizo that I will remember for a long time: perfectly grilled, nice snap and just a little bit spicy. It’ll be hard to go back to conventional hot dogs after giving this beast a whirl.

The steaks at Casa Salvaje are no joke, and anyone craving a prime cut of beef will want to check this place out. I think their Churrasco ($27.99) is a solid choice—lots of bang for your buck here. The T-bone ($37.99) and ribeye ($37.99) steaks ramp things up a bit with both size and flavor, but if you really need to satiate your protein bloodlust, you gotta get the tomahawk ($84.99). Yes, it’s the most expensive thing on the menu, but it’s a comparatively decent price for a tomahawk steak around these parts.

Whether Casa Salvaje becomes the kitschy tiki and steak joint of my dreams has yet to be decided, but I’m already thinking about my next visit. Fans of traditional Colombian food, a good steak—or both—will want to hoof it over to Murray for this gem of a restaurant.